Steering suggestions for a 100
 

Hello everyone. I'm looking to improve the steering on my 100 as it seems to need some attention. The steering box needs to be rebuilt as it is fairly sloppy and the pivot in the front axle allows the axle to move forward & backwards as I turn the steering wheel. It isn't very much, 1/4" to 3/8" either way, but I'm assuming it should be delt with. I would like the steering to be easier to turn then it is now, which I have to use both hands with moderate force. That being said...

When rebuilding the column & steering box, would it be worth it to put the Ross column bearing upgrade kit (I see it on Ebay mostly) in? Would this make steering easier?

I also read about the "Super Steer" axles that some of the cyclops tractors have. On CubFaq they say you can reduce your turning circle by quite a bit, which is something that interests me a great deal. Can you put one of these axles on a NF Cub? Would it be worth the cost? What parts would you need to complete this conversion (if it can be done)? What are the drawbacks of having one of these axles/setups on your tractor? Somewhere I read that it can lift the front of the tractor up a couple of inches.

Thanks everyone for any info they can provide!

You can put a thrust bearing on the steering lever bolt and you can put a bearing at the top of the column.
You can get the thrust bearing here http://www.kirkengines.com/

You can get the column bearing here http://ccspecialties.org/steering_seats.html

It is well worth the work to do this. I just did it and it is amazing how much it helped.
I got the bearing localy, just ask for a NICE 605 bearing, that is the size you need. You'll need to get it at an industrial supply vendor. The bearing for the top of the steering tube is a 3/4 x 1 3/8 radial bearing and I got one at ACE hardware. The cost of both bearings was around 7 bucks, a lot cheaper than buying them on ebay.
Be sure to dress up the cam follower. I clamped my 1/2 inch drill in the vice and chucked up the cam follwer and dressed it up with a file.

I would replace the bearings and races in the steering box with the kit that's available from CC. The cam follower stud probably needs replacing, too. I've done a couple of these and was asked by a couple of members to do a how to on it, but I haven't gotten around to that yet. I guess I should do that soon...

That kit on epay is a ripoff. The bearing is a 'Nice 605' and costs less than $2 at Motion Industries or a similar bearing supply place. I had a hard time finding the locknut without buying a bag of them, so I bought a bag of them at Fastenal and a bunch of bearings and did several of my tractors. I never tried to get one at the same place I got the bearing, it's a 5/8 NF nylock jam nut if you want to try to get one.

I went through a 100 last summer and rebuilt the steering box, put a bearing at the top instead of a plastic bushing (front wheel bearing works) and put the thrust bearing on the steering box. I could steer that tractor with one finger, and there was almost no play in the steering at all.

The 'super steer' axle will probably work, but you may have to come up with your own drag link. Depending on which version you get, it'll raise the front of the tractor and mess up your deck leveling. The earlier version will not raise the front as much if at all. You will also be stuck with wide front wheels since the spindles are 1" instead of the 3/4" ones on the NF front axle.

Another common cause of high steering forces on the NF tractors is the spindles being bent and all of the camber being gone as a result, thanks to too many wheelies and stuff like that. The spindles can be heated with a torch and bent back where they belong. That will also make a huge difference.

I agree with Matt...kit on epay is a ripoff. Biggest thing I find wrong with steering boxes is greese thats dried out and the steering system out of adjustment. The cam follower usually needs some minor work done to it. I've trued cam follower(s) up in a lathe and a drill press in the past.

Page 5 of this topic:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick
has the procedure I use to rebuild the steering assembly. Wide front tires have more wear and tear on the front end.

If it takes two hands to turn the wheel as you say, there could be a couple of different issues. The front wheel spindles could be worn/rusty/ or otherwise binding up, if you unbolt the drag link from the gear box and raise the front of the tractor, they should turn back and forth pretty easy.

Second thing, often times there is so much wear or the gear box is so loose that the cam follower doesn't fit well into the steering shaft and when you turn the wheel the center shaft tries to push the cam follower straight out instead of in the up and down motion that it is supposed to go. There are also several other issues with the gear box that can cause it to become difficult to turn, that just rebuilding the unit will take care of.

I believe the nice 605 bearing does help some, but just rebuilding and properly adjusting the gear box will help immensely.

Be sure to straighten the lever before you put it back together, it will make adjusting the gear much easier and it will also give you much smoother action when turning the wheel.