782 Tranny Question
 

Since my last post, the 782 is cranking well and the engine is running. I have removed the tires and rims. The rims have been powder-coated. Four new tires were installed to replace the rotten tires. Also, I purchased and installed a points cover and gasket. I have power to the headlights and need to replace the GE 4411-1 bulbs.

This morning I cranked the 782 and put it in reverse. We went in reverse for about 20 feet at a good speed. Then. I shifted to forward and now the 782 will not move in forward or reverse. The driveshaft is turning. The brake pedal is working ok. Any ideas?

I probably need to change the transmission filter and fluid.

Thank you in advance for the responses.

Gotta check all the normal things:

Definitely change the fluid and filter, making sure to use the correct filter

Look at the linkage and make sure moving the lever on the dash moves the trunion on the hydro.

Also inspect the trunion and make sure the slot where the springs ride isn't all worn out

I don't know the driveshaft setup on a 782 but maybe you sheared a pin in the driveshaft and the pump isn't even spinning?

Not sure if there's even a pin to shear or not though :bigthink:

Broken roll pin in the driveshaft.
Check to see if the stub shaft on the rear of the hydro is turning.

YUP, BTDT a few times on my 784.

:ThumbsUp:

Thanks for the responses. I am very much a greenhorn working on this old 782.

Am I correct to remove this plate to get to the plug to drain the hydraulic fluid? See picture.

I have read a lot of posts on using Hy-Tran as the replacement for the IH fluid. Should I use Hy-Tran or buy hydraulic oil from my Cub dealer?

Also, what tool do I need to remove the plug?

Here are links to two videos from today. I am trying to show the driveshaft turning while the engine is running. Both videos are about 30 seconds long. Based on these videos, do you see any need for a spirol pin replacement?

https://youtu.be/BfbPqD2EctI

https://youtu.be/gR0HAv5C38M

Thank you again.

Somebody wise will be along pretty quick to tell you to put the two top bolts back on that cover a few threads from making contact. Slowly pry the bottom open.

And your videos are "Private".

Thank you.

I think I fixed the videos.

(A) The rear end cover needs to be removed for fluid draining. Be prepared for about 2 gallons of oil.

(B) The "plug" in the rear cover serves two purposes. (1) To fill the rear end up once it is serviced and the cover is back on, and (2) it establishes the proper oil level once it starts to ooze out.

(C) If the "plug" is normal and correct, all that is required is a typical 3/8" Rachet.

(D) The recommended Oil for Cub Cadets is "HyTran". It is expensive. However, it is your tractor, your time, and your money. Use whatever hydraulic oil you want.

The videos do NOT come up for me. The Spirol Pins normally are a snug fit that need to be driven in with a hammer. If you have less than that, then you need to address that issue(s).

Slow the engine down and watch to see if the input SHAFT is turning into the hydro, or better yet, the little unused stub shaft on the rear of the hydro.
Those coiled spirol pins do occasionally shear in the coupling on the hydro shaft.
( also the front flex coupling but your video looks like the shaft is turning) .
If sheared, and you attempt replacement, make sure you support the coupling,
( a hydraulic bottle jack works) so when using a big freeking hammer that is needed, you are not stressing the hydro input shaft and bearing that supports it.

IF......you have a broken Spirol Pin, running the engine at full throttle ....can... create scoring on the Hydro Input Shaft, the Coupling, or both.

:bigeyes: