Video of my 149. Is this shaking normal?
 

Here is a video of my 149 up and running. In the video, notice the Ignition coil/wire and PTO linkage shaking. This is my first tractor with a Kohler K series. Is this shaking normal?

I have a gasket set and I plan on pulling the motor to replace all the gaskets soon but I would like to know if I should be looking into ordering a rebuild kit also. The motor has plenty of power and starts right up every time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLzLPcTPB4o

The old Cubs do shake quite a bit, mine all rattle around when they run. I don't think much of it, because after all, it's a single large piston with no real balancing anywhere to prevent shaking. The deck lift lever on my 106 likes to shake the way that your PTO lever was shaking, the 107 likes to rattle it's hood around, and my Original rattles it's grill very badly. I think I speak for most owners of the old Narrow/Wide frame cubs when I say that this is pretty normal.

Don't fix what is not broke.
Why do you want to take the engine apart to replace the gaskets?
if there is a leak fix it only.
And you just don't order a "rebuild kit" before you know what, if anything is
wrong.
Now if you have a problem that needs addressed, like it smoke's a lot/and uses a large amount of oil and/or is knocking.
Then you take it apart and MEASURE things to see what needs done,
like the piston size is it oversize now or original size? after measuring with precision tools by the machinist he will determine what size piston needs purchased
after reborning.
And the crankshaft needs measured to see what the size it is as well as if it needs ground undersize, because it is out of round or tapered journal or worse scored/grooved beyond use.
Just a few FYI's as other things need addressed like the condition of the valves as well as the guides, ETC. ETC. :bigthink:
oh, and get the cooling tin put back on the cylinder head,
Before you put it to work.:beerchug:

my 14 HP in my 147 shakes like that. It's a big motor with a big flywheel; not really out of the norm.

The 14 hp and 16 hp engines had balance gears in them. The shake-rattle-and roll you have is normal. If you ever have a need to open up the engine (Lower part), then you might consider removal of the balance gears as some people consider them ticking time bombs for the engine.

Looks like you have a nice, clean cub there. Enjoy!

Cub Cadet 123

Thanks for the verification. Just wanted to make sure it was normal.

I want to take it apart because it has some pretty good oil leaks right now. There is a puddle under it everytime I come back to it after its been parked. I tried the replacing one gasket on my Hydro and ended up having to pull it again because it began leaking from somewhere else. If I can clean real good and be 100% sure what gaskets are bad I will try that route.

Thanks for the reminder on the cooling tin. It's still laying by the wall in my garage.

Ok. Thanks for the verification.

This cub has come a LONG way since I got it!! Let me see if I can find a then/now photo to post.

I'll look into the balance gear thing. Not sure if there is a gasket on the lower part that can be bad or not but if it is, I'll probably go ahead and remove them.

Progress pics!

When removing the balance gears, remove the base/oil pan. There are two gears, a lower and upper, that mesh with the main gear on the crankshaft. The lower one will be very easy to remove, simply pulling out the little snap ring pin and rotating the crank until the counterweights are out of the way and it slides off.

However the 2nd one isn't quite as easy. It can be removed without pulling the crankshaft, but there is no super easy way. Either you need to reach down with a special pair of pliers suited to remove the tiny snap ring, downside is the need for a specific tool. Or, it is possible to "destruct" the gear while it is still on the engine, using a hammer and chisel of sorts. Downside to that is that you will be left with a bunch of pieces of the gear, you would need to make sure you get ALL these pieces removed.

Of course there is also the option of pulling the crankshaft, giving you much more room to remove the snap ring, and remove the gear. If the engine leaks from the main seals, and you want to stop that leaking, you will need to pull the crankshaft anyway. And if you do, don't forget the timing marks!

She looks pretty darn nice, long way from what it started out as! Let us know what you decide to do :beerchug::beer2:

Clean the engine really clean with your favorite solvent.
Brake clean, kerosene, Gas, whatever.
When clean and dry, dust it with baby powder, face powder, jock itch powder. flower, baking powder or the like, and watch for the leak.
It will reveal where it is coming from.:beerchug:

Great job on getting that 149 looking good. Keep up the progress and feed us lots of pics. The 1x8/1x9's are one of my favorite series.