Brake and Hydro adjust on 125
 

Working on adjusting these things today, here is what I have learned, I think. Correct me if I am wrong.
The hydro lever should return to neutral at the top end of the pedal being depressed. Before the brake actually engages.

Here is what is happening as I make adjustments. I can get the brake set to the specs listed in the manual no problem. The brakes works fine. I jacked up left rear and tried to set the hydro lever. I can't get it to return to neutral, it wont even try. When I put the lever in Reverse or forward either way it actually binds up the brake so that it will not engage. It binds the pedal right at the place where it should be engaging. As long as I leave the hydro lever in N the brake works fine. As soon as I use the lever the brake binds up.

Shouldn't the hydro lever returning to N be the first thing that happens when.
you depress the pedal. thanks for any direction.

Ken

When adjusting for Neutral, the entire rear end needs to be just off the ground, engine running, and then adjust the cam for the Neutral position so the rear wheels stop rotating.

Sounds like something is not hooked up right, or out of adjustment.

I was just following the manual on this. Figure it's gonna be a little more
involved then that. Waiting on parts to do a filter and fluid change, maybe
that will clear things up a bit.

Ken

Does the tractor have to be split to access cam plate and trunion?
Where is the best place to disconnect drive line for this task?

Ken

I would highly suggest that you go to the Technical Library Section and download the Service Manual. It explains on how to make this adjustment.

I remember doing that adjustment on my 147. Had the rear on jack stands and the front on car ramps. With the engine running I roll under it on a creeper and while the rear wheels are turning on either side of my head I'm adjusting the cam bracket to find neutral. That was one of the more fun repairs I've ever done. Still I wouldn't trade it for the convenience of a wide frame.

A picture of the trunnion plate and associated linkage might bring to light the binding problem. I believe the return to neutral rod is offset to one side of the centerline. I'm talking about the end with the two pins that fit into the slots in the plates. Maybe it has to be flipped 180° to better line up through it's entire line of motion.

Looking at the cam plate and the trunnion set up. Whole thing is pretty
sloppy in there. Is it possible to make the adjustment there with the
tunnel still in place? I have the fenders etc off down to the tunnel but
don't see how a guy can work on it with the tunnel in the way.. thank you for
the help. Everything mentioned helps me sort through it as I stare at for
long periods of time.:bigthink:

Ken