WWYD?? 2166 tins off for the first time
 

Hi all, new member here.

I have a 2166 with the Kohler Command CH16 engine, purchased used this year. Sorry, I don't have the serial handy. I haven't done much work to it, besides replacing two dry rotted rear tires and the battery. The starter, solenoid and ignition module are new, per the previous owner.

The other day I removed most of the body panels to investigate a loud rattling, combined with the loss of hydrostatic drive. In what I called a rare success, the problem was obvious and I did enough research to source and purchase 2 sets of driveshaft barrels to correct the problem. Found a video showing how to install the barrels. Hopefully I'm good there.

I do have the intermittent click and no start issue, which I intend to remedy while I have the panels off using the relay kit mod I found here on the site. The only other issue that I'm aware of, is that when it does crank, it takes a good while of cranking before the engine will even think about firing. It will kick just a little after a lot of cranking, then she will roar to life after you push the choke in. Not a big problem but it sure would be more satisfying if she fired right up.

I am also considering having the panels media blasted and repainting them. Even if not, I was thinking of replacing the body bolts with stainless.

All that said, my question is this... while I have the fender, floor and right side engine panel removed, what additional maintenance and/or mods would you recommend doing while it's mostly naked? I've also removed the deck, to inspect it for any issues/abnormalities but haven't got to that yet. Any other advice is of course appreciated!

Welcome and good luck with your 2166! ....:Welcome2:

My advice, Since you asked. I would pull the engine and remove tins to clean. Very critical part of maintenance on these machines.


As far as it taking a long time to start.. This could be fuel related. Even if its not I would suggest a thorough cleaning of the entire fuel system.


Welcome to OCC and good luck with your machine.

BTW.. we like pictures here :beerchug:

Instead of starting a new thread, figured I'd continue this one.

So I did the starter relay mod, I did remove and repaint the tins (details and pics in another thread called "Paint for newer Cubs"). Since the tins have been off, I have a return of the no-start condition even after doing the relay mod. I am suspecting one of a few things:

• Faulty ignition switch
• Failed relay from the relay mod (suggested model doesn't appear to be of good quality anyway)
• Tins are off for painting, rain/moisture fouling connections from the relay mod. Still has a cover on it, but I don't assume it's more effective than metal body panels.

I am able to send 12v to the blue solenoid wire via a remote start switch, start the engine and mow grass. Feeling pretty janky starting it up like this and mowing with no tins on, LOL!

I have bought a new relay in a sealed housing to replace the suggested model, and plan to clean up those connection points. But at this point I'm really just throwing parts at it. The tractor does not live where I do so I don't have a lot of time to troubleshoot it, so I end up just hot wire-starting it just to get the grass mowed.

Still takes a good amount of cranking to start. I have cleaned the fuel tank and replaced the fuel line up to the fuel pump. The fuel pump has already been replaced trying to fix that issue. None of that has helped.

That damn choke vibrating closed...grrr. Just replace it?

Sure would be appreciated if anyone has any other experiences or ideas to share about what else could be going on if I get a no-start condition after the relay mod is done, but still able to start it by sending 12v to the blue solenoid wire. That's the immediate pain in the neck right now but I sure would like to get everything sorted out and have a reliable and nice looking machine!