Can rebuilt K-301 be used for mowing right away?
 

I read the recommended break-in procedure here. Step #3 indicates to "run engine as you normally would" so would that include putting a load on it, i.e. mowing and also that it can be run (and checked) for high rpm speed? Then step #4 refers to "after 5 operating hours"...again....meaning...what? Simply running the engine or using it to work? My 129 was already 8-9 years old when I got it and so I never went through a 'break-in' on one of these motors. Thanks for any advice....

Cut your grass and kick some ass but change your oil after 5 hours while you are still in break-in period.

LOL..simple as that, huh? The area I have to mow is not exactly your average lawn. Planning on using the Cub to cut paths in the woods that get overgrown with weeds. I'm doing it all again first with a weedwacker so as to not work the Cub too hard right away. Almost afraid to start it, since the last time I used it (last June) is when the rod broke - was NOT a pleasant sound. :Cry1:

Get it cranked up. If it makes you more comfortable run until hot at half throttle with out blades engaged. Shut it down, check for leaks, loose parts, etc.. Once you have done that. Let her rip!:beerchug:
Then of course change oil at 5 hours

PS. If you have not started at all since rebuild, there may be a few final minor adjustments to be made still... High idle, governor, etc

Don't forget to re torque the head bolts after break in

So really no need to follow this?

2. Start and run engine at a fast idle for 15 – 30 minutes. Shut down and allow to cool to ambient temperature (takes about 2 hours). Re-torque cylinder head bolts to 30 ft-lb. Failure to do this can possibly result in a blown head gasket in a relatively short period of time.

3. Run engine as you normally would. Do not “baby” or run at slow speeds…keep the rpm up as this provides proper airflow for cooling and assists in ample lubrication.

4. After 5 operating hours, drain crankcase oil while engine is hot. Replace drain plug and refill crankcase with 1.5 quarts of 30 wt. non-detergent oil.

5. After 5 more operating hours, drain crankcase oil while engine is hot. Replace drain plug. Refill with 1.5 quarts of a name-brand, 30 wt. detergent oil (do not use 10W-30, only straight-weight 30).

6. This oil may be run for 25-30 hours before changing, which is the normal change interval for Kohler engines. Always change oil when the engine is hot…this removes more particulates. At 50 operating hours, the engine can be considered fully broken in.

Coop...speaking of carb settings...I find it interesting that there is a discrepancy between the initial low idle setting in the owner's manual (1 turn) compared to the Kohler manual (2.5 turns). Both manuals are the same for high idle (2 turns). Right now I have the low idle screw set at 1 turn. Will be checking the high rpm with a tachometer since the guy who put the engine together for me strongly suggested doing that.

Those are just Starting points, not hard and fast cast in stone settings, they must be tweaked til it runs the best and doesn't stumble especially when going from idle to high speed. Where those screws wind up will differ between machines. And don't be afraid to make slight adjustments as the engine wears in, possibly for weather conditions, etc.

That said, I initially set every carb that I work on to 1-1/4 turns out from seated and go from there. Some need adjusted tighter some looser from there. But I find that to be pretty close for most fresh from the get go.

At the least, I would think retorquing the head after running the engine for only 15-30 minutes seems a bit sooner than needed (?)

No,

It is needed. The first time you get it hot, you will need to re-torque.
You will see that its needed once you put your torque wrench on it. Trust us...