Clutch plates pitted deep - clean, turn, or replace
 

hi all, well now I started getting into the clutch and the steel disks are deeply pitted from corrosion. I turned the front plate on my lathe a few passes just to see, and it is very deep. I really wouldnt want to go that thin. I could turn new ones but are these made out of special hard or stiff steel?

Thanks!

It looks like you're holding that plate in a 3 jaw chuck?

When you turn your clutch plates they need to be piloted by the center driveshaft hole.

Do I need to replace? Can I turn on from mild steel or is this harder steel as I suspect? In that case what if I go thicker like 3/8 steel plate?

It would definately be too thin if I turn it flat, those pits are deep into it.

Thanks!

In my humble opinion, I would replace it.

Based on having turned a couple sets myself, I don't believe they are hardened in any way. 4140 or similar would be fine. You might be able to buy a good used set for reasonable cost and save the time of making them.

How are you holding the clutch plate in the chuck?
I chuck up on the smaller diameter. I usually measure the thickness of the area I'm turning ( before and after). I won't reuse a clutch plate if I take off more than .040.
One of our sponsors should have a replacement clutch plates if yours are beyond reusing.
Midwest Super Cub sells a nice set of replacement clutch plates.

I'm going to turn new clutch plates and they will be a little thicker than the originals. Also ordered some 1144 for the shaft as it is grooved and worn down really deep anyway.

One thing is the clutch bearing, the originals are like $60 for such a simple part, is there an alternative that works? Should be under $10. If not, I noticed the inner rave sticks out a bit. I'm thinking to get an oversize ID thrust bearing and turn a 5/8" ID inner bushing with a step in it. But maybe someone knows an off the shelf part that works already?

Going thicker will change the relationship of the plate face and the front hub hole and rear hub slot. Reducing overall the free travel available in the slot which would possibly impact clutch disengagement. The extra thickness needs to be taken in to account when re-welding to the hubs.

thanks, actually I should have mentioned that the shaft is shot too. So steven suggested using 1144 rod for the shaft so I ordered that (although if I knew that 304 stainless is even stronger, would have gotten that instead). since I'm making a new shaft, I can move the roll pin hole a little to accommodate the thicker clutch plate. someone 50 years from now will either thank me or curse me depending if they figure out what I did! :biggrin2: