Starter Generator Rebuild Problems
 

I suspected the S/G (Delcor Remy 1101691) as the cause of a charging issue on my 106. I watched a few you tubes videos, studied the parts diagram and dug in. I ran into a few issues and now I am having trouble finding the right answers.

First, I used a three jaw puller and bent the pulley getting it off the shaft. Crap, its a $50 pulley! Thinking about trying this ebay alternative. Any one else try it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Start...1ba0:rk:1:pf:0

Second, my end plate and bushing do not look like the videos and parts diagrams. Hopefully the picture helps. It looks like a well for oil as there is a wicking hole in the bushing but the external oil hole is plugged. Do I need to add oil or is there some other service it requires? It also looks like there is another sleeve driven in the end plate. The hole is too small for the bushing to be pulled through. Will getting this out mess up the well plug or the little piece between shaft hole and the plug? Dont want to mess anything up beyond reasonable repair.

On the bright side, I found a melted field coil so I know why it wont charge!

I could leave it and just replace the field coil and brushes but I figured if it was all apart, change the bearing and bushing too. Thanks for the help.

It is far better to rebuild your Delco-Remy Starter/Generator (S/G) than it is to buy the cheap Chinese knock offs, that is seen on the Internet and Auction sites.

Now whether you rebuild the S/G or have it professionally done, that is up to you.

:IH Trusted Hand:

FWIW:
The pulley is the same inside diameter for GM Delco generators for decades.
Even the early alternators in the 60's,(ford also)
just match the O.D. & pulley offset.
No need for a big $$ pulley, $5 is about right.
An old skool rebuild shop will fix you right up.
Usually the end bushing has a wick into the cavity to get to the motor oil in it.
Some have a flip cap on them, others are just a plug lightly installed.
Bushing:
The hardest problem is pulling the bushing out of the blind hole, without breaking the end cap if you choose to install one.
Also some bushings have a place milled into it for the wick to set, orientation is important on a new install.
If it is in good shape, don't fix what ain't broke.
There was a fellow in Evil pay that would sell field winding's & brushes/bushings.
Some of those field windings are not so easy to fit around the pole shoe after you even get the old one out.
Another reason for an old skool rebuild shop.
And as said before, a properly rebuilt delco is better than new, off shore built.
Edit:
That pulley fellow on epay seems to have what you need in his store if you go that route

It looks like the plug could be removed to give it a shot of oil once in awhile.

Are the plugs pressed in?

I was able to clean up the end plate and get a better look. There is a felt seal pressed in after the bushing. it looks like there is a plastic piece between the seal and the welch plug. I haven't found a parts diagrams that show any of these details.

There is a starter shop about 45 minutes away. I was going to give them a call and see if they can offer any insight and or parts. I'll probably just replace the coil to get it charging again and put it back together.

I bought one of those ebay pulleys. It is made from a piece of solid steel and I doubt it would bend up like the original sheet metal one. I bent mine all up also getting it off. I would recommend that ebay pulley.

Some are pressed in others are a cup (also pressed in), i think with a lid. You can get new brush end bushings that are oilite; the old hardened one is still available too with a hole for the wick. Pulley end brgs are available as sealed. Ive used s and d repair. Very helpful.
Thankfully i only shelled out the pulley brg. The fields and armature were ok.

Thanks for the reply's everyone. I ordered a new pulley from ebay. It was $50 for the OEM pulley and this one seems better and cheaper.

I pulled the pressed in 1/4" oil plug and found saturated wicking material in there. I assume they used a plug for the same reason it is a sealed housing. The amount of crud that would end up inside would kill it pretty quick. I don't know what the service interval is, the wick is saturated with oil still. I havent added any in 25 years.

If this unit used a bronze bushing and oil wick it does it need the seal to prevent oil seepage onto the commutator. Would a sintered bronze bushing hold the oil better and maybe get away with out the seal. Either way I decided I'm not going to replace the bearings or bushings right now. Just going to get the field coil replaced and put it back together. A lot more things to fix before I can fire this tractor up.