Cub cadet 1000 with clutch issues
 

Morning all. New to the site, not new to tractors.

I've recently acquired this 1000. Engine runs ok, clutch wouldn't disengage, so I took it apart. Lots of rust, but a few minutes in the lathe and the shaft was nice and shiny. Cleaned up the other pieces, made sure the zerk was open and am ready to put it back together and see what's what.

My question: The clutch disk started out at 1/4" thick, and the worn area in the middle is down to .203". At what point does it become necessary to replace the disk?

Thanks in advance.

I would put a new disk in since you have it this far apart. I use the Kevlar clutches from Midwest Super Cub and they work great and are fairly inexpensive.

When it won't hold any longer.
There is no wear spec on the clutch. If it is damaged, or no longer holding, time to replace it.
In this case, I'm with Tim. Replace it while you have it apart. I also agree with the Kevlar clutch. It's actually cheaper than an OEM.

On a related note, check that drive plate really good. The gear drive QL tractors used a flex plate front drive plate. They are prone to breaking. They were still available, but may be NLA now. Either way, you can switch to a solid driver, but you must also switch the engine to solid mounts to do that. I highly recommend doing both, especially if you have it all apart. Member JeffinPA makes the parts you will need.

Jeff's makin' solid drivers now? Awesome!:beerchug:

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try to get everything operable, and am considering installing a Carroll Stream 10hp diesel I've had for a few years. Looks like mounting the Cub Cadet pto on the new engine may be problematic. There was a guy put one in a John Deere 112 a few years back, but they use the output shaft sticking out the side of the tractor with nothing coming out the other end.

So hey timcasbolt, since you have a lathe handy you gonna face the clutch plates while you're at it?...:bigthink:

We'll see what things look like when I give everything a trial run. I've examined the pressure plates, and see no problem with building new ones if needed.

I got the tractor back together today. Everything seems fine so far, although I did have to take up the clutch quite a few turns on the threaded rod before it would disengage the clutch. Is there a spec for adjusting this type of clutch? Perhaps an air gap or some other measurement?

I think I've heard it said somewhere that a lot of little worn parts make for a lot of play in the linkage?:bigthink:

If you download the service manual it will tell you how to adjust the clutch. I generally just ajust the clutch so there is a 1/4" of free travel and have never had an issue but i don't ride the clutch pedal either.