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Chain Drive??
I've got my Cub Cadet Original in pieces. Have plenty of stripper on hand and the electrolysis tank is ready to go.
The only gripe I ever had with this little tractor was that sometimes the drive belt (between the engine & the drive shaft) would slip. I was considering replacing the two pulleys with sprockets and running a drive chain rather than the belt. Now I know that I am, in essence, moving the designed (and perhaps intentional) "weak" point of the system to some other component (maybe the drive-shaft itself?). Anyone ever done (or seen) this? Maybe up-sizing the cross sectional area of the drive-shaft would provide the increase in moment to equal the new load and less energy loss.(?) |
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:Cub2::Welcome2::Kohler1:
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DieselOnly: Welcome to the OCC...If the Original drive belt has been slipping, it's because of improper tensioning. Follow the adjustment instructions in the manuals and you won't have that problem. That belt, in good condition (not old and dry-rotted) and when properly adjusted, will allow that Original to move even a turning plow through the soil with nary a slip....That's from experience.... You dont really need to re-invent the driveline....BTW: ALL manuals are available from a sponsor.
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when I first got my 'O' it was slipping horrible going uphill with just me. It wouldn't even pull out in 2nd. I had over 1.5" of slack. After reading the adjustment in the manual and using a 3' piece of angle iron to help give me the tension, it works great now. You can adjust the tension by yourself, but it's best for a 2 person job. One to push with the rod and the other to tighten the bolts back.
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DieselOnly,
If you are really into design, engineering, fab work and modifying things, then go ahead and give it a try (didn't mean for that to sound like I'm trying to be a smart "butt"). Otherwise, when you put your Original back together, if you use the correct belt and tighten it properly, you shouldn't have any problems with it. None of my Originals ever slip their belts. |
belts
That belt adjusted properly will pull hard enough to kill a 7 horse. :beatdeadhorse:
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Alright, alright. I've never been married, but I know how to listen. I will admit to a proclivity to "tinker" and "improve".
Upon further inspection (per suggestions in this tread) I found that indeed that old belt was not only looser than goose poop, but VERY dry (bits crumbled off with a slight touch. NOT ONLY that, but!...the portion of the belt that contacts the pulleys exhibited much signs of slippage (probably for a long time) in the appearance of a "glazing"! So, gentleman of jury, I will (for now) fore-go my intended upgrade and defer to the manuals for proper instruction on belt tensioning when this thing goes back together. And, for now, I guess, I'll let that Wisconsin THD continue to sit on its little cart...and not try to shoe-horn it into the the Original. I'll try things the right way once before I try them "my" way.:bigthink: |
If you should happen to change engines for a larger kohler, you can run a double 50 roller chain down to a drive shaft and install a cub lowboy three finger clutch back at the transmission. My dad had also built a twin belt clutch for the origionals. These were all in pulling tractors with 48ci motors turning 7000 rpm.
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