Electric PTO installation in a 1X8, 1X9 series
 

Of course personal preference comes into play on electric vs mechanical PTOs, I simply prefer the electric. Reasons being with the mechanical PTOs, I experienced slippage and adjustment problems with the larger modified motors and they don't seem to tolerate long runtime periods of disengagement without a belt.

I have another tractor (without dual wheels and a stack from another thread) that started as a 149, which I guess also could be considered a 169. It too has been converted from a generator-starter to a ring gear starter and alternator with the QL wiring harness. The QL ignition switch is a challenge with this conversion, I ended up brazing a custom fitted washer inside the 149's ignition switch cup housing to make it work. Also I ended up using an in-line fuse for the PTO in instead of the QL arrangement.

Note the stock 149 style muffler interferes with an electric PTO assembly so after playing around tilting a QL muffler, it's possible to get a QL muffler to work in a 1X8, 1X9 series narrow grill housing, with some custom modified bracketry.

Funny thing when I installed the rebuilt K341, the automatic compression release stopped working, immediately after the break-in. I pulled the cam cover off, pry-ed on the tab slightly, it broke off, but fortunately it did not fall in the crankcase. After getting over my fury I decided to install the "Pulling" starter of choice, instead of going thru the hassle, time, and disturbing the engine's internals, to access the replacement of the cam.
The starter was "pricey" but it will start it without the compression release!

Here is a couple more showing the PTO switch in the cigarette lighter hole, muffler shield bracketry, and electric PTO.

I should go on to say that mechanical PTOs are not bad at all, they are very well made,,, just my experience has been that they are a bit higher in maintenance, especially with a modified K341.

I know many prefer the mechanical due to a slow controllable engagement which is important for loads larger than a typical mower deck , such as a tiller, and a snowthrower. And if one needs to replace a failed electric PTO,,,,very pricey!

With the electric, if the motor is revved up, the sudden engagement "squeals" the belt.

Of course, Your results may vary!

Great work drysumpjet! Those mods are very neat. Thanks for sharing your pics. :beerchug:

drysumpjet:

Great modifications and fabrications.:ThumbsUp:

I, for one, am interested in just what "pulling starter" you installed in lieu of the original starter. I am sure others are wondering what Make and Model you used.

Roland , I think he may be talking about using a starter like some pullers use.

I have a neighbor that uses a starter from a Toyota or something like that to turn his K motors over. He also uses Mopar Electronic Ignition on his tractors.

Drysumpjet , You have some great fab skills , if time permits , maybe you could a more indepth write up with LOTS of pics on your projects ??

Thanks for the compliments. Great question. I removed from the frame the arm and shaft that holds the carbon button (or brake assembly on later model 1X8s and 1X9s). It probably could have been secured away from the clutch though. I removed the long adjustable rod. As far as the original handle, I opted to leave that in place, it's a great place to hang the left hand work glove! The hydraulic lift lever is for the right hand glove.:biggrin2.gif:

Thanks for the Kudos!

I got that starter from here: http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com/st...roducts_id=189

I know it was pricey but as I mentioned earlier, the compression release on my otherwise new 16hp was defunct and the pulling starter was an easy way out. I should mention that this starter requires some rewiring as the starter solenoid is on the starter, I opted to bypass the original IH provided solenoid but left it in place for potential future use. Speaking of wiring, I upgraded the high amperage power wiring to pre-assembled automotive battery cables and use the highest CCA battery I could find.

Cool factor attributes of this starter is it spins the motor over with real authority, and the cranking sound is very refined, not like the coffee grinder noise of the OEM Kohler ring gear starter. IMO, it looks more sophisticated too.

On the other hand, some minuses with this starter:
It's doubtful if it will fit in a Quietline with sidepanels
Not sure if it the adjustable rod for a mechanical PTO would work (I'm using the electric PTO, therefore not an issue)
I had to grind the bracket slightly to clear the 1X9 frame, this could be more of a problem if used in a Quietline line with rubber mounts and associated the motor movement in the frame. I'm guessing the bracket would clear a 147 or other narrow frame Cubs that are re-configured for ring gear motors without modification.
I had to bend/dent some of the motor cooling tin to clear the starter bracket. (no big deal, just a few hammer taps)

Other info on this starter is here:
http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/starter.htm

Scroll down on this page to the mention of Toyota starter.

I seen the bracket only cheap on the aution site, also seen the complete pulling starters there too. Vogel, sells the bracket only too.

Thanks again for the compliments and inflating my ego!

Darrell, you are right on regarding the Toyota starter,

Will do on more write ups on my projects. Thanks for the compliments!