125 problem and question
 

Hi I have a 125 that I have had fof years I am trying to get running. It has spark but the hydro lever won't move. It looks like the linkage is rusted. I have sprayed it with WD40 many times still stuck. The lever is partly in the reverse position so it wants to back up as you are trying to start it. I have blocked up the rear wheels still won't crank over fast enough to start. The lever looks like it has a lot of parts and hard to get at. Any ideas how to free this up? Also this has the angle gear box and lift arm for a tiller? Is a tiller the only implement that uses the gear box and lift or do any other implements use any of that?

Find and buy some Kroil. If you can't find it, use PB blaster. WD-40 is not really a penetrating oil, even though it suggests it is. Unfortunately, freeing up stuck linkage is time consuming, and may even require disassembly to get it freed up. Takes huge amounts of time and is not fun. Good luck.

I'd either remove the engine from the frame and work on it, or worry about getting it running after the linkage is free. Good motor does you no good in a tractor you can't drive anyway, so fix the known issues first. It would be different if it was stuck in neutral. Most likely it would be best to get at the linkage from underneath. I'd drain all the oils and hoist the front end up in the air to get at it easier.

The gearbox on the back is only for a tiller. The hitch used to raise it is compatible with all sorts of implements (in conjunction with an adapter).

Welcome to the forum! :Welcome2:

Is the brake pedal locked in the down position? If the pedal is down then the lever on the dash wont move.

Also, both of these pieces tend to be relatively difficult to come by and will cost more than the tractor you have is probably worth in it’s current condition each unless you can be patient and keep your eyes open and snatch them up.

You’ll probably also want the spring assist if you’re putting a tiller on the back.

And the owner’s manual for a tiller says you’ll want to modify the mule drive with solid steel pulleys and a solid adjuster on both of them, though I hear lots of folks that don’t bother with it and just run a mower setup.

Edit: Whoops misread that. If you already have those things, that’s fantastic. Get yourself a Brinley adapter and a plow and get that hydro freed up and have some fun!

Had the same issue with a 107. It sat outside for years, and the go lever was stuck tight. Used PB Blaster, and soaked all the linkage behind the dash. Every day I soaked it again, and again.
Then I would tap the lever with a block of wood, not WHACK it, but tap it, and eventually it let loose, but you must be patent, it didn't happen overnight...:beerchug:

Hi again, I found the Kroil I had sprayed it will let it sit too hot to work on it anyway been 100 or more and it is in a shipping container or more like a 40 foot oven. The brake moves and is all the way up. Well let you know if I have any luck.

I had the same problem when I got the 129. I did exactly what Zippy suggests, it took a few days but it finally broke loose.

Good luck getting the linkages freed! A couple things to help/keep an eye on: if you pull off the fender pan, you can get closer to the transmission side of the linkages. It's still not great, but it is better. Two of my 125s had frozen linkages, and they were both stuck inside the dash tower. Again a lousy view, but with the battery out and a flashlight you should be able to see connections well enough to give them a healthy blast of oil. While you're in there, check out the neutral return mechanism, it's a wedge-shaped piece that should move on the shaft when the brake is pushed down. The wedge is supposed to bring the control lever back to neutral when the brake is down. If you can press the brake all the way down and the shaft doesn't move to neutral, something is broken. Don't even try starting the tractor until you get those linkages free. Blocking the wheels will do nothing, if the engine catches the tractor is going to move. It sounds like in addition to the frozen linkages, there's 2 other problems: a broken or bypassed safety switch (this only lets the engine crank over with the brake pressed down) and a damaged neutral return mechanism. Don't worry, you'll get it working again, it just takes patience. Best of luck with it!

Hi, Still spraying it. What I meant by blocking the rear wheels is that I blocked under the back of the tractor to have the rear wheels off of the floor So even if they turn it won't go anywhere. When I got it the wire from the coil to power was off so I went right to 12 volts to get spark deal with the rest later.