1863 Hydro-static adjustment?
 

Hello all. I have a problem, I've searched and not found an answer. I admit, I'm not super well versed in the world of garden tractors, so maybe I didn't use the magic search terms. Please forgive me if my questions are frequently asked.

So I was gifted an 1863 in pretty nice shape, with 500 hours but needing some TLC. I'm a pretty mechanical guy, but have zero experience with hydrostatic tractors. I was able to easily fix the no start condition (brake pedal switch). Once I figured that out, it fired right up. And much to my surprise, starting moving forward, at a decent clip I might add. Not fast, but certainly faster than you'd expect a machine to move that's in neutral and had the brake applied! Ok, so problem #1 would appear to be that brakes don't work. (Also, pedal doesn't return, broken spring somewhere? I haven't looked) Problem #2 is that it's moving forward when it shouldn't be. I took the cover off to access the brake switch and see the maze of linkages. I assume something needs adjusted, but I didn't want to start changing things before I checked to see if this was a pump adjustment or something else non-obvious. I don't have a service manual (yet) but will order one, until it gets here, I wouldn't mind having a starting point so I can tinker.

Any advice, or links to write up on brake adjustment, and hydrostatic adjustment? I've found some stuff, but it's always for another model and I'm not well versed enough to know what model info will and won't apply.

I also have an intermittent problem with the PTO safety switch preventing it from cranking, I assume that's going to be a straight forward electrical troubleshooting procedure.

Any other common 1863 issues I should address? Was I given a decent tractor or a known problem child?

Thanks for your input!

The adjustment is under the tunnel cover. You can get the manual as a free PDF download. It's a pretty easy adjustment with a nut on each end that you loosen and turn the shaft to adjust the shaft while in neutral with the rear wheels off the ground. There are YouTube videos also showing how to adjust it.

Thank you for your reply, I'll try to track down an online service manual. I did see some videos on adjusting the neutral position, but they seemed to apply to a model different than what I have. The search continues!

Sorner, turning the shaft and changing the length of the rod IS NOT how you adjust neutral on the brake pedal return. :bash2:


OP:
Go here and get this manual. It isn't for your machine, but it's the last of the printed ones that give a good description on how to adjust hydro neutral. Page 2-57.

Second, there is no "PTO safety switch". There is a PTO switch. A reverse cut out relay, reverse switch, seat switch, brake switch..... but not safety switch on the PTO. So..... you better just test on it. Don't bother to order a service manual. You can download it free from CCC here. I know it doesn't have your model listed, but it is the official book for that model. There is a chart at the front of the book showing what replacement model numbers it covers. Wiring diagrams included.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! I think my terminology is probably incorrect. I assume, there is a safety switch (one of many) that prevents the engine from cranking if the pto is switched on? Fairly often, I hit the key and get no crank, and get a PTO light on the dash. I was working under the assumption that it was telling me the PTO is engaged and therefore won't crank. (PTO is switched off) Also, the PTO switch required a bungee cord to remain engaged, leading me to guess it may be tripping a safety. Hit the key a few more times and eventually, it cranks and fires.

I'll check out the links you sent. Hopefully they neutral adjustment procedure makes more sense when I'm in from of the tractor. The words make sense, but the picture isn't very clear.

I greatly appreciate your input.

The PTO switch itself will keep the tractor from starting if it is in the ON position. If you are getting the PTO light on the dash on when trying to start, then the switch itself may be bad, shorting out internally. Also, if you have to hold the switch in the "start" position, then one of the safety switches may be bad or have a bad connection. Sounds like you have more than one issue. Well, download the manual, look at the wiring diagram and your tractor. Ask away if you have any more questions. :beerchug:

I wasn't talking about the neutral on the brake pedal return, I was talking about when the forward/reverse lever is in neutral. OP asked for a brake adjustment and a hydro linkage adjustment I thought... I must have misunderstood.

If he presses on the brake to start the tractor and once it runs starts moving, the cam plate bracket is out of adjustment. The control rod is used to center the dash lever after the cam bracket is adjusted. FWIW, you seldom ever have to adjust the control rod.

I'm sorry to be a pain, but I've been tinkering around the garage, and this adjustment has me stumped. The manual is a little vague, and the picture is very hard to make out. Would you give me a brief description of what I'm adjusting in there? The cam bracket, or what I think the cam bracket is, bolts directly to the transmission. I can loosen it, but I don't see an adjustment. The bolt that the cam pivots on doesn't seem to be eccentric, or in any way adjustable. I know I'm missing something. I was able to back it out in the driveway and hose 20 years of dust off everything in there, so my visibility is much better now.

I swear I remember being a better mechanic than this!

I did get the brakes adjusted this evening. And, there's a fan on the drive shaft I assume is meant to keep the transmission cool. At some point, the arm on the brake shaft that is meant to contact the brake safety switch got bent and sheared all but 3 of the fan blades off. Need to order one of those. One all that's done, I need to replace the positive battery cable, and figure out what's going on with my PTO switch. Then complete fluid change and I think it's golden.

Just crack the 2 bolts loose but leave them snug enough to hold the bracket in place. Then with the tractor supported off the ground so the wheels can turn and the tractor running tap the bracket up or down to adjust. The bolt holes are slotted to allow movement up and down. Use a punch and hammer to tap on the bracket until the wheels stop turning. Shut the tractor off, tighten the bolts and restart the tractor to test ( sometimes the adjustment moves a little when you tighten the bolts). If needed, repeat adjustment. Good luck.