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Bought a 1200 QL, two issues!
I bought another Cub and it appears to be a good one. It runs/drives well, low hours. but it spent some time sitting out in the weather. There are a couple of issues. First. the choke control is EXTREMELY HARD to move. Sprayed lube into where rod is exposed at dash. not much help. Also, it has internal brakes that don't work. How do I adjust the internal brakes? I have one Cub 1200 with single disk brakes and another with dual disks. Now one with internal? I know IH would change things on products often, but what is it with different brake systems on same tractors?
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There is an adjustment on the internal brakes. Get under the tractor and look, you will see the adjustment. If it isn't self evident, consult the service manual. It covers it. It is available in the "Technical" section under tractors. Let us know if you need help finding it. As a note, sometimes the linkage, or even the brake puck in the trans gets rusted stuck. Might take a lot of work to free it up again. There were only 2 styles of brakes available on the 1200. Internal wet disk, and external disk brakes. The latter of which used a disk brake on each wheel. The tractor you have with a single external brake, is simply missing the other one. Who knows why. |
The choke cable situation is that you have two options. (A) pull the cable off, submerge it in a solvent solution (ie: PB Blaster, etc) or (B) buy a new choke cable.
The Quietline Series of Tractors had two types of brakes on them. (A) the Internal brake Wet Brake system, and (B) the external dual disc brakes. |
With internal brake, one wheel stops the tractor. With disk brakes, both rear wheels will stop the tractor.
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Thank you for the replies. On choke cable, I will have to replace it. I will work on brakes next. This is a great forum and tremendous help.
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From what I have read, and in some of my own experience, is that the internal brake "puck" seems to last a good while, being another good advantage of this type. I have also replaced worn out pucks, it's an easy job!
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Just so you know, when you test your internal brakes, you have to do it with both wheels on the ground. If you have it jacked up, the wheels will just turn freely, but in opposite directions. The internal pucks stop the axle, but before the differential. This can make this type of brake exciting in slippery conditions. Also, when you adjust them, make sure they aren't engaging until after the clutch begins to release. Otherwise you'll be causing undue stress to the driveline. The manual holds the clues to doing it right.
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I was able to very quickly and easily adjust the brakes! Thanks!
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