1200 Driveline Issues
 

I finally got time t put my new driveshaft in my 1200. However when I went to install it, things aren't lining up. The clutch arm is too far forward. The clutch rod can't even go through the hole. I have no idea where to start, it's as though the driveshaft is too long. I ordered it from Jeff, so I'm pretty confident it is right.

Also, the rear coupler seems to move a lot. Not sure how much is acceptable. The ball is in there, but slides in and out a bit, and it rocks quite a bit when the driveshaft is detached.

Here are some pics of it in the machine showing the alignment, along with it out showing it assembled. These pics are with it bolted to the rag joint in the rear. Perhaps I put something together wrong.. I also posted a couple pics showing how much the rear couple moves.

I really need to get this thing going so I can keep the grass mowed.

Did you order it for a 1200? Or did you just order a drilled shaft? 1200 is different. The stock one Jeff makes is for a hydro tractor, not the gear drive 1200. Just making sure you gave him all the info.

Also, that looks like a standard 3pin driver, but hard to tell from the pics. If it is, did you also install the solid motor mounts? If not, your going to damage parts.

Yes, ordered it for a 1200. I don't believe the holes would have been there for the clutch otherwise.

That is a solid driver. I put solid motor mounts in last year, also from Jeff. Per yours and others recommendations.

One thing I did notice is that my old driveshaft had 2 holes at the end of the shaft, and I believe the coupler was on the 2nd hole, leaving a small portion sticking out the end. I just assumed the PO messed it up, as the new shaft doesn't have a second hole. Also none of the parts pics show a second hole further in. I attached a pic with an extra coupler I have slid on to show.

The issue your having with the arm looks normal to me, I usually put a pair of vice grips on the bottom of the arm for leverage and push it back with one arm while I use the other to get the rod through the hole and start the nut.

How does the clutch engage if I have to compress the spring to get the rod on? I can give it a go and try to get it assembled. I didn't have any issues when I put the old one in, so I assumed something was amiss. But I can't see how anything could be wrong, it's a fairly simple set up.

Also, should I have that much play in the rear coupler? It goes side to side quite a bit.

Jason, the driveshaft on the right is correct. The ass end of the shaft rides in the ball bushing inside of the trans input yoke.

That makes sense to me. I thought it was odd the new one didn't stick out. So I suppose the new shaft I got is drilled wrong?

Are both shafts the same length? If so you can drill a new hole in the proper spot, that will also help out with the situation you're having up front.

Something don't look right.
Pics of OEM shaft.

There should be 0 play between the trans input yoke and the trans input shaft. In order to install the clutch/drive shaft assembly without unbolting either the engine or the rear end, you must remove the trans input yoke from its shaft, slide it on the drive shaft, engage the 3 pin driver and the front ball bushing with the front of the clutch assembly/ drive shaft, align the drive shaft with the trans shaft and then slide the trans yoke into place. Dont forget the ball bearing.