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How do I drain and flush my hydro?
My hydro has Type F ATF in it. I want to drain, flush and refill with Hy Gard. I assume I have to break the plate on the rear of the housing to drain, but not sure how to flush or how many times I need to flush to get as much of the ATF out as possible.
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YES.... you have to remove the rear cover.
I use a cleaning solvent, lots of rags and paper towels, then blow the rear end out real good. In you situation, it may require a couple of flushes to get out all the ATF. No matter how clean you get the rear end reservoir, there will always be some left internally to the pump. As a suggestion, do the change initially, then run it for - say 25 - 50 hrs, and do it again. |
Roland is correct as usual,
But it might be noted that the little of the atf that remains, will not hurt anything. Sundstrand actually recommends ATF type "F" in other applications so it isn't detrimental. :ThumbsUp: |
I just cleaned the rearend for my project tractor and installed new axle seals,brake pads and gaskets on the axle as well as the center section. I drained all the Hytran out and wiped it off and out. I thought I had it all till I removed the axles and axle housings. I bet there was about 3-4 ounces of water in the axle tube housing. So, like the others said,you wont get it all out unless you thoroughly disassemble it. I would think the clean it out add new and check it later would be a great idea..
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Serviced he hydro this weekend. Changed the filter and fluid. Finally got all the air out of the hydraulic system. The hydraulics are backwards, have to swap hoses tonight. I still have a noise in the hydro. While runnibg it sounds like a whine. Shut down the engine and just before the driveshaft stops turning, it sounds like a ratching sound. Is this normal?
BigNasty GS, where did you find brake pads? |
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Cub Classics in Lancaster Oh. They are about 10 bucks a piece plus shipping. |
Thank you for the info sir!
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