149 hard to start
 

I may have posted about this before but I can't remember and can not find the old post if there is one. I apologize if I have. Still need help.

The engine will start OK, as long as it has a little crank movement before the compression hits. If the crank is sitting at the compression point, the starter will not roll it past the compression point. Replaced s/g with the one on my work 149. Same thing. Pulled the engine and removed the drive shaft and same thing. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.75. Checked voltage at starter when turning over and it was 11.73. New battery, wiring harness and pos. & neg. cables. Rechecked all grounds and getting good ground, battery to frame and s/g to frame. Any and all help appreciated. Have a great day.
Bob

As a suggestion, considering what you already have done and checked, would be to focus in on the ACR.

Thank you R. Bedell for your suggestion. I have checked the opening of the exhaust valve by the ACR and it seems to be working properly. As I rotate the engine by hand the exhaust valve starts to open about a quarter turn of the crank before the "S" mark shows in the window. There is still a lot of compression as the engine is hard to turn past the "S" mark. I am turning it by hand using the front pulley. Seems like you would lose a lot of compression when the exhaust valve opens. Should it stay open all the way to the "S" mark showing in the sight hole? I may have to check to see if it closes back before it gets to full compression. If the ACR needs attention, does the engine have to be torn down to get to it? Thanks again for your help and have a great day.
Bob

All the info for the ACR is explained in the Kohler Service Manual available from the Kohler web site.

RLause you are correct. I have a copy of the shop manual and it does cover the ACR. Should have looked at it before I posted. After going to the garage and double checking the movement of the exhaust valve, it seems that it is only moving when letting the exhaust escape. It does not seem to be moving before the firing of the spark plug. Will go down tomorrow and pull the oil pan. Bet I will find the spring in bottom of pan either broken or it has slipped off. Thanks to all and have a great day.
Bob

Or you could leave the motor in the tractor and just take the cam cover off.... the springuy usually just comes unhooked.

Was able to work on the engine a little today. Took off the oil pan and the head. The ACR spring is intact and attached. When I turn the engine by hand, the exhaust valve only opens to expel the exhaust gas. It does not open to release compression like it is supposed to. The flyweights seem to be quite loose. Don't know if they should be this loose or not. The large flyweight does ride over the small flyweight as it should. Took a picture of the tab. Maybe some one can see the problem. Thanks for looking and have a great day.
Bob

Off hand it looks like the tab is bent down and not doing like it should.

Richard, you were correct in stating that the tab looked like it was bent down. The service manual said not to try to bend the tab as it would break as it is hardened steel. It wasn't any good the way it was so I bent the tab back to a level position. It did not break. The exhaust valve is working as it should after the adjustment. Now I need to find a good used oil pan as the threads in my aluminum pan are in bad shape. Ran a die down them but it did not help. Thanks to all for the help and have a great day.
Bob

Looks like that may solve it Bob, keep us posted. And good eye Mr. Lause

I just got a cast pan for my 169 and it wasn't bad, under $30 with shipping. (Thanks Tim and Mark) Every aluminum pan I've had or seen has been roached one way or another, either the mount threads or my latest with bad mount threads and cracked drain plug area along with stripped drain threads. Cast pan is the way to go. :beerchug: