Cub Cadet 105 (Project Thread)
 

Starting a little dilly-do for the 105 that was gifted to me, I'm taking a lot of pictures so it goes back together without too much head banging..:bash2: It may be useful to others who need a reference to how a section of the tractor is supposed to go together...that is if the PO's knew what they are doing.

How it looked before I started the tear down. ( I don't know if I supposed to say I'm refurbishing or restoring..? I'm not going to dropp it and add ground effects... but It may not be factory floor specs, I intend to keep the spirit of the design and look IH Cub had in mind.)

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8564/2...e90aef22_c.jpg2016-08-04_12-53-19 by yourshoesareuntied,

on Flickr



Project Album Here https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8277/2...56a81c57_t.jpg
https://flic.kr/s/aHskC461kS

In my opinion do what you need mechanically, but cosmetically I wouldn't touch it! Ole girl looks great! But it's yours you can do as you wish!

Perfectly restored tractors are great and I enjoy looking at them, but I also like tractors that owners have added there own touch to.

I say make it however you want, its your tractor!!:beerchug:

I have a 100 that I want to fix just to putt around shows on, so no lift, or pto. Saved a frame from the scrapper and have welded all the holes up, it will be smooth with no barbs.



Randy

Today I pulled the engine, I found a place that has been well known for small engine machining for decades here. I want to get it mic'ed out so I can get a rebuild kit and properly select the standard rebuild kit or the 10 overbore

50.00 to inspect bore and if needed overbore, can re-sleeve to spec for additional cost .
50.00 for the crankpin I believe if needed they do something to repair it but I don't understand what..
35.00 valve job.

Have any you replaced the the points and condenser with a solid-state ignition module? So far the only ones I find state they are not for battery ignition systems.

Good luck with your 105!

You will need at bare minimum a .010 kit. If they tell you that you can go back standard, get a second opinion.


Hope they don't actually charge to inspect the bore. I hope it's $50 to bore it, and additional to sleeve it. Hope they have sleeved Kohlers before if that's necessary. (Not likely necessary.)


Not the crankpin, the crankshaft. The crankpin is what gets GROUND. That's what they do. Grind it down so it's round again.


Not bad.... Hope that's a 3 angle.


No, no no and NO! Keep the points. Don't even consider jacking around trying to make it "better". Point ignition is just fine. It works fine. It lasts a long time. Don't buy in the BS, just put a new set of points in it, time it properly and it will be fine. :angry:

Thank you J-MECH, been a long time since I took small engine repair in Shop class..

I'll ask about the valve angle and I bet your right on the pricing, its likely the charges if they have to bore or grind.. my understanding is this is where the local repair shops send the K series Kohler. I'll make sure before they take it.