2084 running on 1 cyl
 

starting to work on my 2084, hadn't been run in about 1 year since I had it at the dealer to work on what I thought might be a governor /carb problem.
It ran at full rpm but under load would lose rpm. They told me need to rebuilt engine

anyway trying to work on it myself again and discovered that the right cyl was not firing. put my tiny tack on the plug wire and zero rpm indicated on the right cyl.
pulled the plug wire and no difference at all in engine speed

I do have a weak battery and had to charge/jump to get going

I pulled the spark plug and it looked really good

guessing most likely problem is the ignition module ??

what is involved in replacing the module ?

Sound to me that the ignition module (aka magneto) is junk, you will have to remove the engine from the tractor and take the blower housing off the engine to replace it. It's an easy job but a bit time consuming.

Wow, I did not expect to have to pull the engine out to replace the module. I better make really sure that is the exact problem before going to all that work.

I read in some posts about kill wires or corroded connections causing no spark issues, I do have spark on 1 side only and the engine will run

I did notice on the tiny tach when on the non firing side, I did see rpm briefly displayed, like maybe 400-600 during start and then it quit displaying as rpm increased.

any advise on how to make sure its the module would be appreciated before pulling the engine

If your magneto (or whatever you want to call it) isn't firing, I don't see how your plug could look anything but wet! Maybe it doesn't fire at higher rpm
bur fires at idle and cleans the plug?

As stated, it's not a big problem to pull the engine, pull the blower housing, clean out the mice nests, oil matted grass clippings and then change out your mag.

I don't know a sure way to check your ignition but I think I've read enough that that is your problem.

I had one go out on an 1864. It is not a bad job, but does take time. I was able to clean out the fins and did find a dead mouse. Also I was able to service the drive shaft cv joints. Make sure you get a copy of th service manual so you can set the coils to the proper clearance. I changed both of mine while I was there.

switch plugs side to side to make sure you don't have a bad plug . or check to see if any spark will jump to ground from plug wire. if no spark you'll have to pull the engine and remove the blower housing and look at the kill wires to make sure nothing is rubbed and shorted to ground. if not then you'll need a coil ...I'd recommend replacing both while you're in there

I had a magnum 12 that would idle but anything above that it would just pop and backfire, turns out mice had eaten the insulation off the plug wire and it was arcing off the block, not sure if this is your issue but either way the engine has to come out. If that does turn out to be the problem you can repair it by slicing some fuel line down the side and put it over the wire with some zip ties.

I had the same issue. I found that the coil ground wire was bad. The wire hooks to both coils with a blade connector but each coil is isolated with diodes. I replaced the coil with one from a donor motor with no change so i replaced wire and runs like a top. Just something to look into. Good luck with your cub.

After switching plugs, I would check compression and or pull the valve covers first. It could be something like this too.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=45369