Somebody please guide me ... 782D
 

I've used a red 782D (1980 ish) since around 1990 ... she still works great. I've replaced the deck (rusted out) ... use the snow plow occasionally ... have replaced the rubber donuts in the drive line, most of the electrics, many pulleys, the tires (with terra tires, originals were farm style), recently replaced the electric clutch, rebuilt the starter, replaced the cork gasket between the hydraulic pump and the transaxle last year. As you can see I've had about every bolt & nut off and back on. STILL HAVE A REPEAT PROBLEM ... she burns up an ignition switch every year !!! I've found them as low as $25 recently ... but what would cause the ignition switch to fail so often .... think I have seven dead ones now. After about a years mowing weekly they fail to put out power to the connection for the fuel pump, electric clutch, and lights. Anybody have any clues ???

Are you using a Kubota switch,or an aftermarket one?

Very nice red diesel tractor and great family pics!! Some of the cheaper ones are nothing but junk from afar. Sounds about right, they last long enough and then die out. I'm with Uncle Lewy......are all of your switches from the same brand/company?

NOTE: For your grandchildrens' safety, you should see about putting a belt cover on that deck, though.

Don't know if you have already seen this or not, but perhaps this might help:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21

Cub Cadet 123

Genuine orange & teal box KUBOTA ... recently buying from Messick in Pennsylvania

That tractor is famous. It's one that comes up if you google 782.
Nice machine!!

THANK YOU to whoever resized my HUGE picture !!! Now about the failing ignition key switches ....http://www.messicks.com/services/ima...eIfEmpty=False

What part/section of the switch burns up? Glow plug? "ON"? "Start"? All the above?

More than likely, you have too large a draw either in the glow plug circuit, or the starter circuit. You say you rebuilt the starter, but did you upgrade to the gear reduction? Either way, you need to add a starter relay, and a glow plug relay. This will take all the load off of the ignition switch.

J-Mech is correct.

There is a bunch of current running through that switch at pre-heat and start up, just watch your amp gauge.

Best thing to do is get the $7.00 NGK 2031 Y-103V glow plugs and do the upgrade. You will also need a $10 solenoid. This will take the large current draw off of the switch.

I just picked up that switch at Messick's 2 weeks ago for $25 too.

Tom, you got some really good advice on this forum (like always) from some guys in the know. Hope their advice helps you out!

Cub Cadet 123

The left position ... warming the glow plugs ... and start position have never failed ... it always fails on "RUN" ... power fails to the lights, fuel pump and electric deck clutch. Two (original) headlights and two tail lights should be no problem. Fuel pump has been replaced a long time ago with an aftermarket unit ... I could check it's draw I guess. Just replaced the electric clutch. Charging voltage shows 14.5 with the original alternator. Amp gauge shows slight "+" after startup ... balance when deck is engaged ... slight discharge with lights and deck both on.

I opened one of the older ignition switches with a Dremel tool cutter and it showed slight signs of sort of a blue "varnish" on the contacts but no actual heat damage. A couple of the failed switches feel "crunchy" when you turn the key from one position to another. Problem is always in the "RUN" position ... :bash2: