Magic brand enamel - is there anything better?
 

I just finished up painting an 1810 with Magic brand enamel from Tractor Supply and I can't say Im too impressed. It went on thin and runny so only light coats could be applied. Took a long time to dry and doesn't seem to harden up real great either. :bash2:

It looks pretty good but only time will tell how durable it'll be...

The reason for this thread is I would like to get some advice/opinions on where I can get some good durable paint with the best match to the original color possible for my future restorations. Also, what is the best way to go? (IE spray, brush, etc) I also was wandering what a good primer to use is too...


:Thanks:

use the case/ih enamel, it goes on nice and is user friendly.

well when I repaint my 1211 to look like a 1282 I'm gonna use van sickle from orscehlens. Thats what I used on my 1200. Epoxy primer is the best. I used yellow primer on my 1200 from orscehlens also. (Full crill) or acrylic enamel is good too. Urethane paint goes on well too. Biggest thing with paint is prep. A clean, dry, smooth rust and oil free Surface. Use a hvlp gun to spray it. The case IH paint is good too. I've heard a lot of bad things with the majic paint. Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

I'll second that. Just finished painting my Original with the IH paint and am more than satisfied with the results. Used their reducer and Valspar hardener that the dealer sells. Used a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun.
Also, the prep work makes a difference between a good paint job and a crappy one.

Painting is as much work/money as you want it to be! But also one of those areas where you get what you pay for!

One of the problems with TS paints is that they seem to switch vendors too often - doesn't seem to be too much consistency in the quality of the paint. Also, it is a simple enamel that tends to fade pretty quick.

I usually use automotive quality paint, or slightly less expensive machinery and equipment paint. I use Nason, which is Dupont's economy brand. Sherwin Williams also sells reasonably priced auto paint that is much better quality than Tractor Supply...

With a garden tractor, you don't have a lot of surface to paint, so don't need a lot to get it done. Also, it is easier to spray the smaller surfaces and multiple planes/edges so your errors don't show up as much. HVLP guns (Harbor freight makes a few decent ones at a reasonable price) generate less overspray, so use less paint.

Definitely MORE money by the time you get epoxy primer, hardener, reducer, paint, etc - but will be a much harder, longer lasting paint job that is much deeper looking and bright. I tend to buy often used paints (Deere green and yellow, frame black, IH white, etc) by the gallon - its cheaper that way and I use it eventually. I just bought a gallon of ih yellow and it was $100+, but that will cover 3-4 tractors...

Safety is critical- ANYTIME you use an auto quality hardener, ventilation and respirator/filtration are critical, as well as body covering to prevent skin absorption. PAINT CAN KILL YOU!!!!!!!!

And as somebody already said, surface preparation is 90% of a good paint job...

"Majic" is anything but, and is likely the worst paint I've ever tried to use. After TSC switched from Valspar, I gave the benefit of the doubt and tried the new Cub Cadet yellow. I got the exact results you've mentioned.

I was able to find Valspar on Amazon, but it's a little pricey once you finally get it to your door. I only use rattle for little parts and touch-ups. For the main chassis and fenders, I also use automotive paints.

All I shoot is Nason and DuPont. Nothing else as far as I'm concerned. I don't shoot enamel either. I prefer Urethane.

Here is a picture of the fenders and frame plus all the other little parts after 3 coats of the Magic stuff. It's definitely a learning experience!

Speaking of fenders, where can I get the rubber foot pads?

:Thanks:

Another...

ive used the majic paint since I painted my first cub about 3 years ago, its the only paint I use other then some spray cans now and then for small parts. If your going to use it you have to use there hardener and reducer, drying time is decreased a lot, most times I can reassemble next day if im careful when handling the parts. I usually put my tractors together when the paint is still curing so that when tightening your bolts the paint give in and doesn't crack, ill post some pics up of the tractors ive done. Nobody that's bought them has said the paint looked horrible after owning it for a year.