Shimming front axle
 

Since I was doing the ISO mounts / oil pan repair in this thread, i decided to check the slop in the front axle too. There's quite a bit, measured about a tenth of an inch fore/aft motion. I've seen the threads on clamping with 3/4" fine thread, grade 8 bolts, but I think that would have a tendency to re-spread.

I've also seen a lot of threads on shimming, but no one really mentions what to shim with. My question is what is best to put in there? I took the measurements and it looks like 3/4" ID and about 7/8" or 1" OD. Used a scale on the axle to measure the fore/aft slide and it looks to be just under 0.1". The axle beam is only sliding fore/aft, no tilting at all. Checked the pin and bushings too as many have said. Pin looks near new and bushings are tight and straight. Do i need some kind of hardened shims or just plain washers (grade 2? 5? 8?)? Should i split the slide distance with shims on front and back or just shim one side?

Along the same lines, has anyone tried putting a zerk fitting in the pin or axle to grease the pivot periodically? The pin looks like some hard stuff, but maybe drilling vertically (1/8" or so?) into the axle beam, to the pin's center cavity might be a good way to push in some lube. I suppose it's not too hard to pull the pin and grease it, but a zerk would make it stupid simple, and i need that!

There should already be a zirk in the axle.

[QUOTE=rdeyoe;343096

I've also seen a lot of threads on shimming, but no one really mentions what to shim with. My question is what is best to put in there? I took the measurements and it looks like 3/4" ID and about 7/8" or 1" OD. Used a scale on the axle to measure the fore/aft slide and it looks to be just under 0.1". The axle beam is only sliding fore/aft, no tilting at all. [/QUOTE]

I got my shims from my Cub/IH dealer but you can go here:

http://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dmpz#

Get a shim thick enough that you have to tap it in with a hammer. Makes a big difference in steering play.

If there is a bolt and a nut used as the pivot pin, can you explain how it is going to "re-spread"? :Huh:

He means using a bolt to squeeze the channel back together and the putting a pin back in.

For what it's worth I always just replace the pins with a grade 8 bolt, even if you shim it its still just c channel and its going to spread more. You need to buy an 8" long bolt so it has a long shoulder to avoid the axle riding on threads, once its installed and tightened to your liking just cut off the extra.

Oh - OK.

Why not leave the 3/4" bolt in? I've seen numerous posts doing just that.

Roland- Yeah. That's what I was meaning. Clamping the channel closer and re-installing the pin. Seems there's some sort of clearance issue with the bolt head on the oil pan.

olds45512- my pin, bushings and axle are in such good shape (maybe it was replace by PO) i wanted to keep it more or less stock. I think shimming would do fine, but that does bring up an interesting idea. Why not drive a roll pin or bolt into the rear bushing to keep it from spreading? Hmmm....more to consider. Don't think i've seen that one yet...

Mike- Thanks for the supplier, i'll look into those. Didn't realize that Cub dealers had such a shim. Is it an actual Cub part (number)?...or just off the shelf item?

Won't the head of the bolt hit the oil pan on a 12-16hp?

YUP. The postings I have seen is where the head of the bolt is turned in a lathe and cut down to about 1/8" height. Then a "nylock" nut is used to keep from vibrating loose. Keeps the channel from future spread, and a nice and tight front axle.

:ThumbsUp:

I found the pictures I was looking for...