Meet Myrtle the 1650 (I know but what's a guy to do. :). )
 

Yesterday I picked up a 1650, as promised in my other posts here is the first pic after I cleaned it up and reassembled as much as I could and drove it off the trailer. I'll post more pics in a new album for those interested and keep 'em coming as the restore progresses. For now I cleaned it up today, years of caked and baked grease and oil, and freed up the frozen thrower and chute and reattached the grill and hood. I also figured out why the lift lever is hanging loose unfunctional, the roll pin is sheered, or that's what it looked like, hard to see up in there. I had to use a large screw driver to activate the lift so I could get it off the trailer. I looked like hell but couldn't see an easy way to get to it without removing the dash which appears to be quite a job considering all the stuff attached to it.

At least I know it works, I'm very pleased all the hydro's are working, and working well.

Next to do on this is to get the left engine compartment cover (got one?) and get the carb stabilized. It's running really solid and smooth as long as the choke is out about 1/4 of the way. Also it will not idle at low throttle and leaks gas if not running. I'll pull the carb and look at the points and timing next week. I'm pretty sure the float and needle valve need attention unless someone has a better thought.

Also a priority is to fix the lift control. As I stated earlier it looks like quite a job. Any shortcuts anyone knows of just to get the lever reattached to the linkage?

The floorboards are in rough shape, lots of rust holes on the edges closest to the frame on both sides. I'm not a welder, have no equipment. The only thing I can think of is to replace the floorboards which appears to mean I have to replace the fenders as well since they are a unit. Is there a mod out there somewhere to perhaps cut the floorboards and attach a replacement plate or something?

The frames are really solid though and the footpads are fine but need to be cleaned, wire wheel brushed and painted .

Hydrolics: it has a Cub Cadet OEM filter on the pump. Do they still make those filters? I'll look around. I'd like to change out the fluid as soon as possible. What is the best/right fluid? I also need recommendations on this procedure. If there is a bleed order or specific procedure I'd appreciate the advice. I figure since I have to do major dismantling to get the lift lever reattached I might as well do the fluid change at the same time.

Lastly before I finish this book for the night: the front end needs to be aligned. Serious toe-in (I think that would be the term). Recommendations on this procedure?

Ok, I know I asked a lot here but I've got a lot to do. These are just the first and critical steps to get Myrtle (don't ask) ready to keep the snow under control this winter. Next spring she'll get a real makeover.

Here's to a new project and lots of fun.thanks for any advice in advance..
Ken

Fuel tank view?
 

Oh, and if you look at the hood, is that flap over the fuel tank original? It's just a piece of rubber sheeting screwed to the hood. Doesn't seem like something they would do.

No its not original and neither is the hood, its from a 128/9

The positive camber is normal, intentional and helps with steering. No adjustment needed.


Cub Cadet recommends Hytran hydraulic fluid. To replace the fluid, unbolt the plate off the rear end, but do not take the bolts all the way out. Tap the plate gently to break the gasket seal. Oil will start pouring out, make sure you have a big enough oil pan to catch all 7-8 quarts of it. Once all the oil has drained, take the rear plate off and clean all the gunk inside. Take a minute to marvel at how well built the differential is. Clean the plate of gasket residue, also the rear end, scrape everything off real well. Reinstall the plate with a fresh gasket. This is also a good time to change the filter, check the Technical Library for which filter to use. Once the filter is changed and rear plate bolted back on,remove the fill plug and fill the rear with fresh oil until it reaches the level of the fill plug. Done.

Keen an eye on Craigslist, you can sometimes find the whole fender assembly. There's supposed to be foot rests that go on top to protect the fender foot rest area. If not, Harbor Freight sells a 120V flux core welder that will do the job.

If you're taking the thing apart, you should look into the condition of the rubber motor mounts. They probably need to be replaced. Other things to look at replacing are the rag joints on the driveshaft and the joints on the steering rods, after 40 years of use it may be a good idea to replace them for safety reasons.

I am happy that another 1650 wil be saved. They are a true workhorse. While this one needs a little bit of work, it will be well worth the effort.

As for the rust holes in the fender pan, used fender pans in good condition are fairly easy to find. Check with the sponsors above, and they can help you. The same holds true for the hood, if it is non-original and hacked up.

I second the use of CaseIH Hy-Tran for the transmission/final drive. It has a water encapsulator in it so it keeps the moisture out of the oil and gears and sends it to the bottom. Cub Cadet still offers a filter, as does Fleetguart and Wix. Wix makes NAPA filters, too! I also second the examination of the flex joints and the motor mounts. I used the genuine Cub Cadet mounts on my 1250 with good success. There is also a modification for the engine cradle that should be done at the same time. Specifications for that are found in the technical section. While you have the engine out of the tractor, take a look at the steering. Rebuild the steering box if necessary, check/replace the tie rod ends, and squeeze the front axle mount if needed. That information is also found in the technical section.

I love Quietlines! Good luck with your project. It will be a fine tractor when completed.

Your cab is a Curtis Cab,made in Mass.,that is mounted on the hood,but I see why they cut a hole in the hood though,should tip back so you can refuel....
Does the wiper work?
Looks like a Myrtle

that baby's rough. i have been eye-balling her on CL for some time. glad someone grabbed it so i didnt have to lol :beerchug:

Sounds like the hydronic change is pretty straight forward, glad about that, thanks.

I looked at the ISO mounts before I committed to the purchase. At least based on much of the tech data available here and on GardenTractorTalk. I think it'll be fine there for awhile at least. I definitely will be replacing the flex joints, they're in tact and don't look damaged or torn but they do look a little 'sagging' ??.

The hood hinges as expected, it bolted on fine and is nice to see gas level without opening it but I'll be getting an original, not happy it's not but it is what it is.

Sounds like replacing the fenders is the right answer, the foot plates are there but rough, perhaps when I clean and paint 'em they will be good.

Yes, it's a little rough but not as rough as you might think. It had a lot of grease.and grime and the power washer took a lot of the paint off but I am fine with that as it will be getting a protection paint job in the neer future and a full detail strip/paint in the next year or two.

Everything works, including the wiper on the cab and I did go into this expecting a project. I'm happy with it. thanks for all the advice.

You can get most of the parts you need from the sponsors on the site. It is mostly complete and running so you are ahead.

My 1450 came to me as a basket case and leaked fuel like crazy when the valve at the tank was on. I rebuilt the carb and when it was apart I found a small piece of a stick that tried to make its way into the fuel bowl. It was holding the needle wide open.

My hood was completely replaced on my tractor with used parts. The hood was dented, the nose was cracked and the headlights were missing. It looks much better with correct parts.

The pin on the lift arm isn't as bad as it looks. Take the fuel tank out and you should have enough access to complete the repair. The bolts on the fuel tank are long and have nylock nuts. Lots of fun with the 1/4" drive ratchets. I kept mine origional but I've seen some guys that will reverse a QL lift handle so it is on the left. IH moved the hydrostatic control for speed to the right of the dash which makes it hard to control the lift and speed at the same time.

The others commented on the other questions you had. My tractor spent a lot of time outside and looks like it. I really want to paint it someday but other projects are first. It is sound mechanically which was my goal. Aesthetics will come...someday.

Anyway, reply if you have any questions and congratulations on saving a 1650. I know it will serve you well.

Bob

If you ever want to get rid of the cab let me know first the guy wouldnt split them on clist. and are you looking for a set of fenders?