782 not starting again
 

Having trouble getting my cub to start again....

Checked the main fuse: Good
Tied off both the seat safety and brake pedal safety.
Recently replaced the ignition switch.
When running power directly to the second post on the solenoid the starter will spin but not engage.
When running power to the hot side of the ignition switch the starter will turn and try and start the engine.
When i jump power like this i have no spark.
Not sure where to start with this one..
Thanks in advance for your help!!!!

Mike

Are you touching the positive jumper cable to the heavy lead that goes to the starter @ the sol terminal?
You will also have to provide a hot lead to the + side of the coil to"hot wire" it and get spark.
Did it run properly after you replaced the Ign switch?
The 782's have 2 wiring schematics depending on the serial number.
We need a little more info.
Also you say "AGAIN" what happened the first time?

The first time it turned out to be a faulty fuse.
Do I still need to provide a hot line to the coil if I am applying power and it turns over the the terminal on the ignition switch.
Last time I had the issue one of the other members provided a schematic for trouble shooting.
I am getting voltage at the amp gauge and am able to get the motor to turn when jumping to the terminal on the ignition switch

The mower also ran for about half an hour or so after the new switch was installed. I have also been having problems with fuses blowing for the ignition and the lights.
When I go to cycle the key for the lights any fuse I put in even large ones blow instantly.
The ignition fuses usually take a little longer but will eventually blow

ok,
If you are blowing fuses you have an over current/short somewhere.
you need to find that.
I found both wiring schematics doing a google search some years ago
Maybe Roland will pop in and post one here, or you can do a search on here.
Hope you got the correct switch ordered by part number not something that looked the same because they have a lot of different configurations that have the same terminal arrangement but internal connections are different.
Check headlight wiring if you are blowing that fuse sometimes a wire gets rubbed bare or pinched.
FWIW Tractor supply does not have the correct switch BTDT.
Check to see if you have voltage AT the Coil + terminal in run and start position.

Weird problem
 

Troubleshot the problem a little more tonight with a power probe and was able to narrow it down to the ignition switch....i just replaced this two weeks ago before the pto went out. Looks like it is gone again i replaced it with the correct switch with the new replacement part number. Im not sure what would cause the mower to eat ignition switches. I looked for signs of wear on any wires and could not find anything. Im still not sure why the starter does not fully engage when i touch the power prob to the post that leads to the starter....any ideas?

Mike:bigthink:

What do you mean by "power probe"? A small wire or a literal power probe doesn't carry enough amps to make the starter bendix jump out.

It is better to actually test electrical problems with a test light or a DVOM. This putting power to this and that and jumping safety switches, jumping across starter solenoids isn't testing. It's not even really guessing, and there is no way we can assist you unless you give us power reading at key points. I have doubts that you have a bad ignition switch because of how you "tested" things. Jumping across different components is only beneficial if you know how and why they work.


So.... start over. Are you getting 12V to and out of the ignition switch on the correct terminals?

jonathan

Thanks for the reply, i isolated the path from the battery to the ignition switch going one connection at a time verifying voltage. I was typing my reply to you and wanted to double check my voltage numbers. I found one connection that was only showing 10.3v where everything else was 12.3. I pushed the connection back in and crimped it back down and it turned right over!
Thanks for all of your input.

Mike

Glad you got it going!

If you are touching the "S" wire you only need a small gauged wire but if you are touching the Side of the Solenoid that goes to the Starter you need a Large Gauge wire or it wont carry the current needed to spin the starter fast enough to engage

OOps I didn't read all the way down... you got it sorted out. Cheers