Need point gaping help!
 

My question is after loosening screw that arrow is pointing to, do I shove points back against the little rod coming from engine and then gap the points or pull points forward away from the rod and then set the gap? Actually according to the manual, after I figure this question out, I then rotate engine by hand until points open up to their max and then set the gap at .020. I do not have a timing gun by the way, and they call this static timing. Is there a good video on this procedure?

Not a video, but this should help.
http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/to...tic_timing.pdf

On my K301, on the opposite side of the engine , in the tin, is a "window" about the size of a nickel. Looking thru there you should see a letter ( I think it's "S" ). As it comes into view, the points should open fully. That is where you set the gap.

I added a couple arrows to your picture. Slightly loosen the screw ( just so it's still against the plate ) and stick a screw driver into where the red arrow is. Pivot the breaker plate ( green arrow ) to get the correct gap. Then tighten the screw and double check the gap.

So step by step it should go. And this is with the screw tight at start?
Put the S in the window.
Then slightly loosen screw.
Put screwdriver in slot to open gap.
Set gap at .020 for starters?


So it doesn't matter if points are shoved back against that rod at start or pulled forward from rod?

Turn the engine until the points open to their widest.

Loosen the screw just enough to get the plate to move with the screwdriver.

Set and retighten.

Make sure it's on the compression stroke.

Look in the tech section under "tech tips". There'd a write up in there. Easier than Matt Gs explanation.

Ok. I still need to know when starting procedure does the points need to be shoved back touching the rod coming from engine or pulled back not touching it? I would think it makes a difference?

Got a weak yellow spark at the points? Won't start?