I filled my gear transmission with Hy-Gard instead of HyTran -- little rant
 

I searched about what kind of oil to put in the gear transmission of my 108 and the entire internets demands that I use HyTran, mostly for the added moisture retention capabilities.

This farm runs Deeres and I do not use HyTran in anything. I use Hy-Gard in everything. Its what Deere calls for in all its tractors and it is not compatible with HyTran (what CaseIH/CNH calls for in their tractors).

So I put Hy-Gard in my cub cadet rear end. I stock it in 55 gallon drums. I thought about putting in GL5, but Hy-Gard is cheaper.


Here is why I don't understand why the entire internet demands that I use HyTran:

Its just a gearbox we are putting oil into. I have probably a hundred gearboxes on this farm that require oil. They all require either 90w oil, some variant of 90w oil (85w140, etc), Hy-Gard, or grease. Usually if it requires oil either 15w40 (the most common on farm engine oil), some kind of 90w, or any kind of hydraulic oil is acceptable.

Gearboxes generally aren't picky about what kind of oil goes into them. Planetary hubs and things with synchro's (GL5 + brass syncros is a bad time) are somewhat picky, but plain gears and diffs aren't that picky.

So why is the internets so focused on HyTran? Because of the added moisture retention capability compared to any other hydraulic oil? All my other gearboxes and tractor rear ends are exposed to the same environment my cub is, and they don't have a problem. And those tractor rear ends also function as the sump for 3000 psi hydraulic systems.


I'm 100% sure the reason the manual calls for HyTran instead of any generic hydraulic oil is because HyTran has always been a CaseIH/CNH product. And I'm 100% sure its fine to use any gear oil, hydraulic oil, or even 15w40 that you want. I would have put in the cheapest generic hydraulic oil from TSC if I was going into town that day.

If my rear end blows up I'll post here.

It doesn't make sense for a manufacturer to go out and test every every oil out there to see which one performs to specifications. They come up with one oil that's tested and certified for the equipment and that's what they support and recommend. That doesn't mean that any other oil will not work, it just means that it's never been officially tested in the equipment and so you use it at your own risk. If you're ok taking that risk for $20-$30 savings, no problem. I myself use Mystik JT5 in my tractors instead of HyTran.

Because a CC is an IH product and that's what the book calls for. That, and people on the internet as whole don't know squat. Out of 1000 people polled on the net you will find one that knows what they are talking about. Good for you for not putting in what the book says. Now we will probably have to close this thread for all the arguing that will begin. Should have just stayed quiet. :beatdeadhorse:

Can we get a like button for posts? Lol

Yeah I'm also going to agree but refrain from saying what is in my cubs.

We buy 80w90 by the drum so guess what I run.:biggrin2:

Well, the reason that John Deere recommends to use Hygard is because they ran their own tests and determined that Hytran did not meet "their" companies wear spec. I read the bulletin myself. It lacks zinc which reduces wear and JD recommends it. Not to badmouth Hytrans as its moisture absorbtion is second to none and good stuff but I don't like the wax buildup.

International actually recommended you to use quote, unquote Hygard or "equivalant". I also seen that myself in the original literature.

If the hydraulic oil meets the ic-6 "I think from mem" or Hytrans spec its fine and I have used the 5 gallon bucket stuff from a tractor suppy for years in my cubs with no issue but to each his own. If yer skeerd, yer skeerd. If I personally tear something up Ill fix it, not everyone can do this. And, I change my filters and fluids more often than most so would notice an issue where some just dump it in and forget about it........for years.

I, like you have too many pieces of equipment to have each individual brand.

Just be careful using the tractor supply stuff and be aware that there are 2 different kinds one for trans/hydraulic systems like cubs and the just straight hydraulic oil. You can read the label on the back to check if it meets your manufactures spec like jc3 or hytran or ic6 most are pretty broad range and besides they all come from the big refineries before branding.

Finally for guys who are not mechanically inclined and don't mind the price go with hytrans by all means.

And your right about the brass or carbon fiber syncro stuff you have to be careful or those huge cast iron casings on the old cummins diesels that had to have synthetic because of the heat buildup and retention will cook a dino.

Let me make this simple, your tractor use what ever you want in it. These what oil threads are turn into useless rants. That said this thread is now closed. :beerchug: