1200 resurection
 

I'v got a 1200 that my dad found at an equipment auction. This tractor sat outside long enough to rust and seize the drive shaft clutch assembly too badly to reuse. The flexible drive plate is also cracked. I am thinking about buying a complete clutch/driveshaft setup from Zach Kerber Machine & Design with a red spring and a 6 pin driver. Does anyone know if I use this setup will I need to use solid motor mounts or if I retain the rag joint will this be enough? Solid motor mounts are not a problem I just don't want to damage my new clutch/driver setup and would like to set this up correctly from the get go. This tractor will be used for heavy towing and hillside mowing with a .020 overbored k301a. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks.

Yes you'll need to use solid mounts with the 6 pin driver, the original 3 pin was designed to flex which the new 6 pin will not. Contact member jeffinpa, he makes the solid mounts.

A red spring is too much for a daily user. A blue spring like the one sold on Cub Cadet Classics is a better choice for what you want to do. The red spring will make your clutch pedal pushing leg sore real quick and limit who drives your 1200.

Another good set up is the clutch rebuild in the tech section. I'm using the same set in both of my 100s. The one 100 has a 10 horse power version of David Kirk's Killer Kohler that he has in his 1250. I have very little to no clutch slippage. The clutch does push a little harder than a stock spring but doesn't make your leg sore.

I'm not sure cost of the Kerber clutch system is. I'm guessing it is more expensive.

Some of the parts I put in my 1200 clutch;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...0&postcount=43

very happy with the blue spring.

And Merk's clutch rebuild tutorial

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33653

And ended up going with 2 rag joints;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...&postcount=135

I know I'm gonna have to do something with mine too on my 1200. It doesn't slip, but the rattling is driving my crazy!

I purchased the clutch setup I mentioned before and a set of solid mounts. The drive shaft is too long I'm guessing on purpose because the roll pin hole at the rear was not drilled. Does anyone have a good way to measure for this? If I do away with the rag joint and bolt it solid does the shaft need to rest on the ball in the input shaft? Or does it just need to be attached to the rear driver? As for the red spring if it proves too stiff I will just swap it out for a lighter one later.

I wouldn't do away with the rag joints. Their there for a reason. The driveshaft will move some horizontally.

I got it all together this weekend fired it up and made a victory lap around the yard on Saturday. Can anyone recommend a good lawn and garden size battery? Unlike my 125 I can't shoehorn a small car battery under the seat of this 1200.

Also the red spring is not too stiff probably because the clutch arm that came with it is longer giving me more leverage the pedal pushes like butter.

I put a red spring in my 1000, along with the longer/HD clutch arm. Feels like stock that way.