Have a O problem
 

Ok on my original its driving me nuts trying to figure it out. When the drive line is cold the clutch disengages fine but once it warms up forget about it. Keeps pulling after the pedal is pressed down. I have greased everything i can on it. Lubed everything else. Adjusted the clutch and it got better but once warmed again back to square one. Seems that the PO had the same problem cuz there are no brakes left on it. I can use a flathead screw driver and pop it free and its fine until i release the pedal any help is appreciated

is it possible the clutch spring is getting weak? cold it has enough oomph, but warm/hot it is weakened? im probably way off, not having experience with one, but looking at the clutch assembly, if it wont release, but you can help it release and it stays im thinking weak springs. there isnt much more that is affected by heat that can be manipulated and stay. if it was the friction disc warping it would go right back to warped when released, and if it was sticky slides i would imagine it would be worse cold.:GoodLuck:

See my 86 did this and it was just slight rust build up. But I've run the o around enough to wear that off

Weak spring would cause slippage not a failure to disengage.

very true, i was thinking on the engagement side. the spring that applies the pressure to the clutch to keep them together.

What kind of shape are the clutch plates and disks in?
I saw this happen on a go cart where the plates were worn beyond acceptable limits, and were tightened further and further to push a few more miles out of them. Once they heated up they basically lightly welded together. Like brake pads, the inner layers of the plates were not the same material as the outer, and thus not designed to handle the friction and heat.
And I've seen the same type situation, clutch wouldn't disengage on motor bikes when the wrong type of oil is used in a wet clutch. And from oil on a dry clutch.

I don't know much about O clutches, but if the clutch is supposed to be dry, maybe try disassembling and cleaning with brake parts cleaner in case someone assembled it with greasy hands. I know it sounds backwards, but grease/oil can cause a lock up.

We had this conversation on a facebook group this morning as well. He also stated that the turnbuckle was maxed all the way out and brakes were worn down to nothing. I suggested that the issue could be his pedal is not being depressed all the way due to the turnbuckle being maxed. Perhaps relining the brakes and backing off the buckle would help get more push out of the pedal to fully disengage the clutch plates.

The reason i suggested this is because of personal experience, i was having the same issue during my restoration, and found that the clutch pedal was not being allowed to go all the way down. Hope this helps:bigthink:

Well even with it maxed out i can pop the plates loose and have almost a 1/4" gap on the release plate. But like I said before once its freed its fine...but use it and back to the old problem. I loosened the brake turn buckle some today and tried it out. Problem still exists

Sounds like you need to disassemble it. Sounds like it's hanging up on the splines.

Clutch won't disengage
 

I am having a nearly identical problem with my clutch on my "120" but it doesn't matter if it's warm or cold. It also doesn't seem to matter if the tractor is under a heavy load or just coasting along.

Clutch fully rebuilt 2 years ago with Midwest clutch fiber disc, new bearings, red spring, teaser spring, pressure plates machined flat, etc. Only issue I can see without disassembling is the holes aren't clean in the fiber disc, but this is really minor and wouldn't affect plate releasing?

Plenty of pedal travel. Plate will easily open by hand hand with the pedal down in locked position and there is at least a 0.2" gap. Plate slides freely and easily back and forth with 1 finger light pressure. Teaser spring not broken, bearing sounds good, etc.

Problem slowly got worse over the last couple months of use, but I could have been fighting a minor version of it for a while without knowing it. Only reason I say this is because I've had to adjust the brake at a much higher frequency over the past 6 months or so. There are random times when everything works as intended on the first push of the pedal too.

I really need to pull everything apart and see what's happening, but I am completely swamped with yard work and need this tractor now. I suspect there's some type of wear on the driveshaft that's holding the pressure plate.

Anyone have any thoughts?