Engine mount torque on 1200 QL
 

Good morning folks. I'm about to bolt up the 12 horse Kohler on the New ISO
mounts, Is there a Torque spec for the 4 bolts that go into the Aluminum
oil pan? All I can find in the service manual is the ISO Bolts/Nuts @ 20 ft Lbs

thanks and have a good weekend
Dave

the dealer said to 8 ft lbs mount to frame

Why is everyone always so concerned about torque? If there is no spec listed, then no need to worry. So.... no there is no spec. Just make them tight. I also suggest loctite on those bolts. If you absolutely need a spec, torque them to 20-25ftlbs. Depends on how good the aluminum is, and how long of a bolt you have. :beerchug:


I have no idea what bolt the dealer would be referring to. The bolts that run through the iso-mounts are not a torqued bolt, and on the older engines, (solid mounted) the spec would be much higher. Sounds like the dealer guessed. :bash2:

[QUOTE=J-Mech;323287]Why is everyone always so concerned about torque? If there is no spec listed, then no need to worry. So.... no there is no spec. Just make them tight. I also suggest loctite on those bolts. If you absolutely need a spec, torque them to 20-25ftlbs. Depends on how good the aluminum is, and how long of a bolt you have. :beerchug:




I have no idea what bolt the dealer would be referring to. The bolts that run through the iso-mounts are not a torqued bolt, and on the older engines, (solid mounted) the spec would be much higher. Sounds like the dealer guessed. :bash2:[/QUOTEMy At my cub cadet dealer the guy in the parts department has A 1450 cub cadet And was saying that cub cadet did a sevice bulletin on the ISO mount. I see that he's talking About the oil pan so never mind

I've read about some folks tightening them a little at a time until the least amount of vibration.

I torque the iso-mount bolts (rails to frame) to 8-10 ft lbs or until the rubber bushings bulge appropriately. Use nylock nuts so they don't come loose. Then torque the oil pan bolts to about 30 ft lbs. If it's an aluminum oil pan, don't over tighten or you risk stripping them out. I've found a bunch of aluminum oil pan bolt holes stripped out. Heli-coiled 3-4 different engines.

Tightening a little at a time is what worked very well for me after I installed new ISO-mounts and made the engine cradle modification. This plan has served me well on my 1250 Nightmare, and I continue to adjust; although almost always return them to approximately where they were.

Thus, don't be afraid to play with the tightness of the ISO-mount bolts. Ny-Lock nuts are recommended. Trial and error is a good rule for these, and they may need to wear in a little bit before you get them set where you want them. The main thing is not to have them too loose.

All the best to you and your 1200. It is a great tractor!

Best thing to do is toss the iso-mounts and throw them in the garbage can. Then, buy a set of solid engine mounts off JeffinPA and install them. No more problems...... EVER.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

I know the poster didn't ask about it, but when he needs to what I find that works best with new ISO mounts is install them with new nylon nuts and original length bolts and leave about two threads showing on the bolts and call it good.

I left about 1/4 inch of the bolts showing above the nylock nuts, about the same as two threads...using the original bolts. But this is with the real $20/ea. IH iso mounts.