127 with a stuck now broken valve
 

I bought a 127 ( thinking for parts...) then realized it was in good shape... just had an exhaust valve stuck... put kano in it then once the head was off gave some light taps with a small brass hammer alternating with the Kano. it was stuck. Verified TDC on timing mark and by removing breather to see gap between rod and valve.... and the rest is history. Tap Tap hit break right flush with the top of the exhaust (port?) now I don't know how to get it out... going to get a spring clamp to remove the spring any advice would be great. I will continue to put in kano daily... (kano Aerokroil)
From what I gather the best penetrating oil available locally.

Please help will never hear the end of it if this tractor doesn't drive out of the garage...

Also does anyone know what an original International (cub yellow) #5 transport trailer is worth.. offered them 300 figure its worth 3-500 as a trailer + what ever the original International factor is..

that's an ugly situation you got there. I guess if I was working on it I'd get the valve springs and keepers out and the other valve to have some room to work. take the breather stud out to. if the valve is broke off flush at the guide take a punch and hammer and drive it down. then block off the oil drain hole to the cylinder and the crankcase and cut the stem off , drive it down some more and cut the stem off till it comes out. the guide itself may start to move to. the guide and valve can both be replaced. you can try heat to.

Thanks dvogtype
 

Thanks for the feedback, I have scoured the inter webs and there is not much for this situation. :BangPC: I ordered the clamp for valve spring removal. one saving grace I think is there is space to hammer down as it is not touching the push rod at TDC. I wold have left the other valve in so thank you good idea and I think heat is in order if Kano doesn't work nothing will but heat...I was thinking of mounting a drill press to drill a small hole through it to help take some of the outward pressure off as a last resort. I don't want to pull the engine. THANKS AGAIN!

Just as a technical correction, this engine does not have push rods. It just has valve tappets, or "lifters".

You won't be able to drill the valve stem. They are HARD. Best bet is Don's suggestion. Drive it down, and cut it off. If you haven't, order new guides. Honestly I really think you should rebuild it at this point, but that choice is yours. You may be able to get away with just doing a valve job.

Thanks J-Mech
 

Thanks for the tech correction I am fairly new to this engine and not easily insulted.... its part of the learning curve...

I will see how the new valve fits once its out... had not planned on digging in to the engine unless necessary as I have only a valve and a few gaskets in to it thus far... its not a resto job as of now.... the 123 with FEL is first in line for that kind of treatment.

I hope the valve guide is easier to find than any info on cutting off a broken valve.

I wish I could establish a value to offer for the over the road international trailer to haul them around on... think it was a number 5

Its worth whatever you are willing to spend. It would be a neat addition and the conversation value should be worth something