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Need advice on setting up Brinly plow
I got my 782 back together after fixing hydraulic leak and replacing fan on the drive shaft. So I put on my newly acquired 10" plow. I downloaded the manual from brinly and looked at the post from here on how to do it. I'm still not sure its right. I put the left wheels up on 6x6 blocks and adjusted the crank till it was flat on the concrete. I've got it pinned in what the brinly manual calls the 1r position.I have the bolts backed out on the brinly adapter so the plow can swing a little both ways and I am using slotted straps. I just cannot get a consistent depth while plowing. Sometimes it will be what seems to be a good depth and ten feet later its only maybe two or three inches deep. I'm sure it's something simple that I am not doing right, this is the first time I've ever seen one on a tractor let alone used one. Thanks for any help guys. I have a screen shot pic of the manual, but I'm having trouble uploading it.
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The first thing I would do is have your hitch towards the left side. Main reason is so you can use the stop on your sleeve hitch adapter. I use the left bolt to help from keeping your plow from swinging too much to the left. I want to limit the swing.
When I set the plow point I don't use any boards under the left wheels. I make sure the landslide is around 1 to 1 1/2 inches on the floor. This will get your plow to go in. The first round or 2 is throw away rounds-meaning you can't set the plow to it's final settings. You can make sure your plow is in parallel with the tractor. Use the left bolt on your sleeve hitch to set how far your plow swings to the left. The 3rd round plow 10 feet-stop and look at your landslide. It should be less than 1 inch from the bottom of the furrow. If not adjust the point up or down until it is less than a inch. Post some pictures if you can. They can be some good help. |
Ok, I'll give it a shot that way. When you asked for pics, are you wanting pics of the equipment or of the furrows or both?
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Started plowing when I was 10 or 11. I'm now 68. The difference in soil will affect how the plow works. when you get it in the ground, you will adjust in small amounts, to tweak the performance. I usually try to get it set to plow in the hard spots, and then use the lift to "carry" it through the soft spots. That will also give added weight and traction to the rear wheels. It takes practice and watchfulness to get proficient, just as any other skill. But there is no greater pleasure in farming, or gardening, than a good job, "turning" the soil, for planting. In my old age, the 149 and my Sears/Brinly 10 plow, gets it done.
I set the hitch pin in the far right hole in the plow beam, to get the largest cut. your plow may need it set different. I also set the "stop" bolts, a little loose, so that the plow can find it's natural track. Using the stops to control the "swing", in transport. Stay with it. You'll get it. You may want to "volunteer" to plow friends, neighbors, gardens, for more "practice". Who knows, they may even want to tip you! :biggrin2: |
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This is the Brinly manual I'm referring to:http://www.brinly.com/graphics/manuals/PP_51BH.pdf If you look at page four-1L and 1R are the same place. The only exception is which way the rest of the hitch is going. My experience tells me to go the way I said without seeing your rig. If a plow is set up correctly the outside edge of the share should be even to 1/2 to 1 inch towards the previous furrow. Yes you can take a wider swipe than the plow share....It could cause problems. This is how like to plow. I still plow several gardens each year. It's extra funds for gas plus I use the gardens to try different things out. |
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