New to Pulling
 

I have an old 122 junker I want to rebuild into a puller. Planning to run in the stock class initially. Going to put in a fine spline axle and carrier, rebuild the engine and clutch. The local club doesn't allow much in the way of mods in the stock class. What will get me the best bang for the buck. Thanks

you will need wheelie bars, weight bars, shifter lock, and an adjustable drawbar . bar tires if you pull dirt and if they allow them. those things can eat up a budget pretty quick. if you are rebuilding the engine you could put a aftermarket cam in but that a couple hundred buck. check over your rules to see whats allowed. then start a budget of how much you want to spend. I've built engines for stock class tractors that cost over $2500 and there's guys pulling in stock class's that didn't spend $200 for the whole tractor.

lol I sell you mine. or should say I have one for sale

Already have the wheelie bars and adjustable draw bar. Thought about changing the cam but that is not allowed. Where can I get a shifter lock?

now rules like that are only as good as the guy teching the motor. not that I condone cheating but if the tech guy don't know how to use a degree wheel and a dial indicator it a useless rule. the majority of the clubs will pull the head. check bore stroke, valve size's, if its been ported and maybe look at the head to see if its been milled . some guys will look to see if the piston pops out of the block and if the carb has been tampered with. . very few will remove the cam cover and look for an aftermarket rod , adjustable cam gear ect. most clubs will check rpm.
actually if you take the time to check a large number of stock cams there it a plus and minus for cam grinds just like any other part. a friend of mine went through 2 5 gallon pails of cams that I have and put each in the block and dial indicated and degreed each cam. took him days, but he did find a few nice ones that would fit within the guide lines of his clubs rules.

Exactly why I was able to buy my red puller, the previous owner sick and tired of everyone wanting this taken apart and checked and this checked. He pulled just to have fun and it became not fun. Need to have a just for fun class.

That is why I want to run the garden stock class. I figure with a fresh engine and clutch, it will do pretty good. Here are the local rules. Based on this, what do I need to do to be competitive.

GARDEN STOCK
1. Stock garden tractors with no body alterations. DISCRETION OF
OFFICIALS.
2. 3600 RPM LIMIT
3. 1050 pound weight limit, 14 HP and under single cylinder (can run
OHV).
4. 23X10.50X12 Bar tires or turf tires (no professional pulling tires)
5. Stock carburetor with choke butterfly, no velocity stack allowed. Air
cleaner required. No intake standoffs allowed
6. Maximum .030" over bore. stock stroke.
7. Stock engine manufactured camshafts. (10 hp part in a 10 hp engine,
etc.)
8. Stock crank and rod (no pop up).
9. Stock head, no welding. Composite head gasket.
10. Stock type clutch and spring.
11. Stock transmission.
12. Stock pulleys on belt drive.
13. Pump gas and no electric fuel pump.
14. Stock coil. (no Bosch Blue coil)
15. Front weight bars are not allowed.
16. Must have wheelie bars if stock hitch is altered
17. Clutches and/or belts must be covered.

you definitely want to have ag tires for dirt tracks and turfs for blacktop. go to the max size the rules allow . you can advance the ignition timing and do a good 3 angle valve job. usually a stock piston and rod don't always come to the top of the block so if you assemble it, measure the difference you can take some off of the block. you can mill the head. just leave a bit of a lip on the head so they don't complain that you took to much off. it don't say you can't run a steel flywheel so I get 35 lb steel flywheel and hang that on there.

no one makes shifter locks for a number of reasons I won't go into. you can buy a shifter with a built in lock for $200 to 300 depending where you go.

Thanks. Will do.