1250 transmission to rear end gasket replacement
 

Had a ton of fun replacing the rear end to pump gasket. The 1250 my Son was just mowing with for the first time decided to start leaking fluid all,over the floor. There has to be a better way to change the gasket than I just did.
What is the easiest way to split the tractor? Keeping the tires on the rear and supporting the rear with a jack then lifting the frame forward seemed to work good until putting it back together. When I supported the frame and lifted the rear in with the jack was the challenge. Lining up the rear end to frame bolts all 6 of them was difficult. The hardest part was trying to get the spring on the brake pedal. I fought this for an hour! What is the way all of you do this? There has to be a better way than I did!

When I do it I use jack stands and wood blocks to level the frame and a floor jack and block of wood to rotate the transaxle around and push it into the frame and lower the frame down to the right height. Cautiously (as to not harm the threads) use a screw driver or an alignment punch to get the first hole on each side lined up for the first bolt and its a 15 minute job to get the rear back in. Getting the linkages adjusted out and all the pins back in was the longest part as I remember. 1 hour isn't bad at all. Dad was helping me as much as he could with a broken foot at the time so I had extra hands. I can't remember if it was really that much help. If I had to do it tomorrow I'd probably borrow Dad's cherry picker hoist to level the frame since its a little more adjustable than blocks of wood.

Glad to hear you and your son are having fun with the old girl!

This picture is from over a decade ago when I did the one on my 149, but you can see the required hardware. $99 Craftsman jack and stands combo. :)

(man this is bringing back memories... I haven't wrenched out of Grandpa's old shop in the pic in a LONG time... Back then this was still Dad's cub!)

http://www.maxwelhse.com/Album/2003/...9%20-%2001.JPG

I leave the tires and deck on (makes for moving the frame easy rollin) as there is plenty of room then once everything is unveiled and unhooked (unhooked everything from the rearend side) I use my small 1.5 ton jack to lift the front of the trans ever so slightly and support it then I hold the frame up and just roll it out. Use the jack to raise and lower the front of the trans as needed and it just slips in. I had the 1450 apart cork gasket replaced and back together and driving out within a hour and a half. That was with a trip to go get hytran.

What about putting that brake return spring in place? I fought that thing for an hour.

I haven't split my 147 (yet) but I had thought about putting the front blade on because it helps stabilize the front end from moving. (but would the sub frame interfere with the split of the rock shaft area?)

That's not a bad idea but wouldn't that limit how far you could lift the back end of the frame to get it up and over the rear end?

How about cutting 2 wooden wedges and driving them in between the front axle and the saddle to keep it from tipping from one side to another?

That's exactly what IH suggested per the service manual.

I'm still got to think jack stands are less work than making wedges.

The plow on the front sounds like a huge PITA. The rear of the tractor is so light without the transaxle that its pretty easily manipulated by hand. I would actually prefer that over wrestling it around with the plow on it.

Leaving the deck on is an interesting idea...