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K321 alum. oil pan
Hi folks,
Here's my plan, since the engine mounting holes in the pan are worn out I was thinking about replacing the pan/block bolts with all tread rod and using nuts to hold the pan on the block and use the extra all thread rod to mount the engine to newly drilled holes in the ISO rails. Anybody tried this before? BTW this is on a 1450. Comments please, Thanks in advance :bigthink: |
Not a good idea. Just get a helicoil kit, drill out the pan holes, re tap with the provided tap and screw in the inserts. I've done several pans this way, it's easy and works very well.
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I too think this is not a good idea. Your asking for trouble. CI pans aren't that hard to get. Another aluminum one would be better than than all thread. Just do like SDD suggested and fix the old pan. It's not fussy, just time consuming.
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First of all, I find it's easier to work on these cubs when you are able to slide the engine forward, especially if you have drive shaft issues. Can't do that with studs sticking through the frame.
I'm with Jonathon. Find a cast iron oil pan and you're good to go. That's what I did to my 1650 when it had a bad pan. Never looked back. |
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Anyone need a cast iron pan for a Case? :Huh: |
[QUOTE=J-Mech;258025]Just make sure its a CI pan for a Cub Cadet. If you buy one off e-bay and your not sure, might check here with us and a pic. I know the difference in pans, and goofed and bought the wrong one a couple weeks ago. In my defense, it was a really, really close pan to a Cub pan and I didn't look close enough. :bash2:
Anyone need a cast iron pan for a Case? :Huh:[/QUOTE Today I found out about a salvage yard near me so if the guy has a cast iron pan I will go that route. It's close enough that I can take my pan with me to get an exact match, that way there won't be 2 case pans floating around out there looking for a home lol. (sorry J-mech, I couldn't stop myself). I don't think I was clear enough in my proposal. Instead of using all thread I was going to use threaded drill rod for the new bolts. It looks like all thread but is as strong as a bolt of the same size. I just couldn't remember what it was called yesterday. (that happens a lot). I also wasn't going to drill the frame but the ISO rails so engine would be in the same place relative to the frame. The new holes would be around 1/2" forward of the existing engine mounting holes. I tried the heli-coil route but I could only get 1 bolt to start in the repaired holes. I thought I did it right but ....well you know. Thanks for the input folks, I'll keep you posted on the outcome...Roger |
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