Dash decal - installing on a O?
 

I seem to remember reading somewhere here about installing the decal on a O and some said to do it differently than using water. I am getting ready to install one and just wondered if using the tried and true of using water to enable to slide the decal around is still the preferred method.

Been a real joy working on it and now I am putting all the pieces back together and just want to know of any problems I need to look out for.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps2f9821f4.jpg

I have the tires mounted and will soon have it on it's feet. I have to move it to my back porch before it gets to large and heavy to get through the doors and out of my kitchen. The electrical work will be next and the engine last.

Can I assume that you are unmarried? Lol you have a Cub in your kitchen how cool is that?:beerchug:

Been too cold to have pets outside! Makes sense to me. Someplace warm and comfortable to resemble it. All the dirt, grime and painting/sanding/bodywork/dirty repairs are already done. And I get my yellow fever fix all day long. The engine will take place of honor on the kitchen table.

LOOKS GREAT!

I just did the decals on my Original, and used the water method. I would STRONGLY suggest using water and not installing them dry. It gives you a hope of moving them around if you're not 100% SURE that you are PERFECT.

If I had to do it over again, there would be a couple of things I would have told myself.

First, Wait until all of the tractor is assembled. Having to remove decals because something got scratched, or a decal damaged because it got scratched is just sad. Also, it allows you to see how they will appear on a completed tractor. Once they're dry (and permanently adhered, is no time to find out that a little tweaking would make them "appear" more level/lined up.

Secondly, when beginning to install the decals, start with the smaller ones first. They will give you some experience in re-positioning them, peeling paper back once installed and working out the bubbles.

That said, when you do start stickin' things, I realized that you can't have too much water. I strived for an even sheet of water that the decals would rest upon before squeezing them in place. This not only allows for moving to align them, but also prevents parts from sticking (and forming bubbles or wrinkles.)

Starting with the smaller ones helps get a feel for working out the bubbles/wrinkles. Make sure you start in the middle of the decal and work your way out. Don't take the protective film off of the decal until it's where you want it.

I hope this helps.

I have done decals on Cubs before and what you said is true, but the O dash decal is different with it's metallic make up. I will just do it as I have done other ones I guess.

That is looking really nice!

I'm like you, not afraid to have parts in the warm house, lol! To me, they are not much more than a plastic abs model, granted all the dirty stuff is done outside!

Keep up the good work!


I made the mistake, thought I could "eagle-eye" the dash tower sticker. Nope, the sticker went on cock-eye'd. Not much hope once the sticker goes down.

Not much help, but the parts look great!

Could someone here please explain the water method?

Water is good, but water with a drop of dish soap is better. Put in a spray bottle and spray down the area completely. Then place the decal on the water, slide around until it's perfectly in place, and squeegee out the water and air bubbles, starting in the middle and working your way to the edges. It's the same procedure as applying window tint, and the window tint film spray you can buy at the car parts store works equally as well. You can also find squeegees in that section. Here are some videos I found, should do a better job of explaining.

YouTube Vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViAKd-YSQiU
Dry Method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRkURz3GrDQ

Soap and water-turned out great if I do say so myself:)