129 foot pedal for speed control
 

I've been wanting to do this for a while and finally started. I saw some old posts on this, but the way I wanted to do it was a little different. I wanted to control the speed thru the existing lever on the dash speed control post. For the new linkage, I used steering ball joints and threaded rod. I found the ball joints (same as Cub parts) on Mcmaster carr for $5 ea. I salvaged the The pivot rod from the foot pedal, the mounting brackets (high quality dumpster diving)... The 90 degree mounts with the bronze bushings, bolt into existing frame holes. The only hole I drilled was in the existing speed control post lever where the rear ball joint mounts. I will have to trim the side cover panels a bit where the new rod comes out. Below are some pics. first from the right side, then from the engine view looking back under the console, finally looking forward from the seat. My mcmaster bill was $60 which included enough to do this to 3 cubs and even included 3 sets of parts for the steering upgrade (bearings, nuts and washers). I plan to add this to another 129 and a 1250 if it works out. So far seems to work really well. The brake pedal still returns you to neutral and the hand speed control still works. This mod also seems to eliminate (or avoid) any creep issues as your foot holds things where you want. I will have to lift my foot for the brake to return to neutral, but in reality I don't see needing the brake much

Welcome to OCC. Good job.

Thanks. I have been a lurker, here and on a few other forums. I got the steering upgrade numbers somewhere and would credit if I could find them again. I will post the Mcmaster-carr #'s after I do the upgrade and ensure they are correct. I bought the thrust needle-roller bearing ($1.07ea) washers and Nylocs.
The mcmaster-carr # for the ball joint is 6058k28 "ball joint, shielded, steel, 3/8"X24 right hand thread". This appears to be an exact match for the older cub steering ball joints (at a cost of $4.18 vs $14). The thread on the arm side and the stud are the same 3/8"X24 so that is the rod I used (Mc #98957a805 $3.43 for 2 feet) and used nyloc nuts (mc #97135a235). not sure if this rod would be strong enough to make whole linkages for the steering, but it would work in a pinch

Welcome to OCC, and nice work!

Welcome to OCC! Good work!

That's pretty neat. I like the way you keep the original controls. That is a design elegant in its simplicity. Nice job, and welcome to OCC!

Foot pedal for the 1250. Similar to the 129, but the speed control for this model is a lot different (front to back lever on right side of dash vs "wiper" style on low left dash). Because the dash speed control was pretty tight (sticky even after lubing) I removed the linkage so the dash lever is no longer functional. The new linkages still turn the shaft that the dash linkage turned, thru the lever that the stock shaft uses to push/pull the stock linkage heading rear. Had a chance to play with this out in the frozen yard today - it rocks! By the time I manuvered out of the garage it felt pretty natural. Now if I could just get it to drift

That is pretty sweet! :beerchug:

Nice job ! That would come in real handy when snow blowing and plowing. Sometimes there just are not enough hands. lol Welcome ! Dave

This being the camp mower, I am hoping it frees up a hand for a cold beverage:beerchug:. This tractor creeps up or down in speed with hills and rough ground, between that, hard steering and ground to rough for a cup holder I thought this was the best solution. I did upgrade the steering and went thru it all the pivots in the front end, so hopefully that will be better. Someday I'll adress the creep problem, but the foot pedal bypasses the need for the damping to work properly