When do you upgrade your clutch?
 

I'm going to rebuild the clutch in both my 108 and 73 this winter. My question is this to you kind folks, should I look into upgrading any area of these clutches when I have them off? I read all the time how crazy strong these tractors are so I'm wondering if I really need to beef anything up? I'm not going to be entering any pulling contest anytime soon but will have a cart on these pulling some weight or plowing some deep snow. I guess what has me worried is at the end of the day the tractor moves because of one or two little spiral pins. I mean if you think about it that's kind of wacky. I see some of these with stacked rears plowing big snow and that has to be a lot of stress on the little pins connecting up the clutch. Am I just completely off base here? I don't really have a boat load of time so I just want to get these running and play HAHA

A stock clutch is fine, as long as your not tractor pulling with it. It will handle anything you throw at it. The reason the pullers have to beef it up is because they are running anywhere from 30-100HP through the clutch usually at 4000RPM or more. Stick with stock, it'll be fine. :beerchug:

Great that's what I wanted to hear! I have more then enough places to put money into these things so if I can spare some I'm happy :)

I had questioned the same topic about my gear drive garden tractor, once. A problem with a bigger pressure spring, is that now you have added pressure on other clutch components, like the release lever twisting resulting in a prematurely worn throw out bearing. It has been said, operating the clutch/brake pedal is rather a inconvenience as well. The factory main spring has worked just fine in my 71. I have pulled a 2,000 pound yard roller with no slip at all. Maybe a new pilot bushing, teaser spring, clutch disk, true pressure plates, spiral pins, and throw out bearing depending on the condition of the system. The release lever should be inspected for wear as well.

OK cool. That was really my idea then. I had planned to get the plates re-faced, some new discs and depending on what I find replace anything that seems questionable. Heck if you can pull that kind of weight then I'm more then set. I just thought that if I had these apart and there was something simple to upgrade I would but it seems like I'm going to be fine with stock. Very cool indeed :)

Whenever I go into a clutch, I generally replace everything but the shaft and the plates, assuming they are in OK shape. If the tractor's been in regular use most of it's life, the pressure plates should be OK. If it sat outside for years, they may be rusted and need to be surfaced or replaced. Otherwise, spirol pins, throwout, teaser, spacer, shaft bushing, friction disk, all get replaced. I've always used stock parts. The stock clutch will spin tires with chains in dirt and dig a hole before the clutch slips. At least that's my experience. If it's a later model (like my 1000) there is also a flex disk at the reduction gear that needs to be addressed.

The clutch on my 121 was junk so I just bought a complete clutch and shaft from Mid West Super Cub. Had them set it up like stocker. Works good, I'm a happy camper.

I agree with the others, stock is the way to go. It'll spin on pavement with chains and weights under heavy load, its pushed/pulled everything I've thrown at it and kept coming back for more. Good luck! :beerchug:

Never heard of them but that's a nice quality piece of engineering right there! What did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

You can check here too. http://www.zkbrmachine.com/
I'd at least run the Kevlar disc if it was me.