Locking Collar on PTO
 

Well I thought I would get right after it on the 122 so I could have it ready for the next mowing. The blades stayed engaged all of the time so I thought I would give the PTO a look. Basically I got the whole thing apart as well as getting the bearing off the shaft. Took all the Allen head screws out of the PTO drive pulley, but only one came out of the locking collar I only got one out because the other one doesn't have the head on it:bash2:.

Not sure how that happened because it looks like this is the first time this has been apart. All the tabs look good and actually everything checks out nice except for that locking collar.

So with a screw broke off and you cant get to it with a drill without bending something whats a guy going to do? My first thought is just to leave it alone and put a new bearing in it and call it a day, but I thought I would run this by the experts first.

I'm getting ready to order a new clutch disk and bearing, but noticed some of the bearings come with this collar and didn't know if they are like a matched set. I also noticed the bearing and collar seem to be machined out of round and even the pictures on eBay show they are off-set on the outside perimeter.

Thanks in advance.

Yes they are out of round from the factory. I've had some luck with a 3 jaw puller and a little heat andnpatience... maybe someone else has some better ideas

Use a Dremel or equivalent to get in there- cut a slot in it and widen it with a chisel/pry bar (to get it off) and get a new locking collar. How does the bearing look?

It's possible that yours is different, but of the locking collars I have seen, they all have only one set screw. The other hole is to use a long punch to set the collar on the bearing, or rotate the collar to remove the pinch fit from the bearing to release it from the shaft.

The bearing and collar are machined out of round to make locking fit on the crankshaft.

Another thing to pay attention to at assembly is that the bearing has a snap ring inside the ID. It is what sets the proper depth of the bearing mounting position on the shaft. This in turn will allow your long pointed set screws that screw into the pulley to land in the proper position. The proper position is behind the bearing, not on it. This keeps the pulley from walking off the bearing in use.

Mike

I read this statement on another board>

As the collar is rotated, it wedges the bearing to the shaft. There’s a circular “depression” in the collar so a punch can be used to rotate it. Simply place the punch in the depression and tap the punch with a hammer to rotate the collar.

Once the collar has been rotated, tighten the setscrew (located in the collar) to hold it in position. Cub Cadet states that to tighten the collar it must be rotated in the direction of engine rotation. So, since the engine rotates in a counterclockwise rotation when viewed from the front of the Cub Cadet, the collar should be rotated in a counterclockwise direction to tighten and a clockwise rotation to loosen.

So is it another Allen head or is is a lock I need to tap?


The bearing felt a little sandy when spinning it although it looked OK. I figured going this far I would replace it anyway. Yeah I thought about the Dremel and have a pack of fresh cut off discs.

Yes I just posted this and I went back and what you are saying confirms this. I will try to tap it around and see what happens. I did see a snap ring on the clutch assembly housing, but not on the bearing. I am going down to look at this again. I guess if more questions are needed I will post some pictures, but it seems straight forward with exception of that locking collar.

Thanks for everyone's help so far.

A long 1/4 inch punch is used to rotate the locking collar, put the end of the punch in that hole/depression, and use a hammer to knock the collar clockwise to loosen, counter clockwise to tighten. Just a side note, I did have one tractor where the locking collar was installed opposite of the recommended direction, so when it didn't move, I switched direction and it came right off.

OK the locking collar is out:beerchug:. Took a punch with a fiber mallet and taped it CW towards the key way. A little PB Blaster and some encouragement and it popped right out.

So from here I guess there is no reason to pull the PTO drive assembly out is there? This one also has the brass / bronze button and I measured .2100 thickness on the head. Is that good to go before I order all of these parts?

Thanks for all the reply's!

The direction that sawdustdad mentioned is very important. Make sure to lock it the correct way. The direction that it locks is what keeps it tight. :beerchug: