Unconventional Repairs done to your Cub
 

What unconventional repairs have you made to your cub and how did you do it? What parts or suppliers did you use? Now I'm not talking about putting a V6 Chevy in your Cub, but things like using a wheel bearing to repair the steering column or fitting, electronic ignitions, or point savers etc. The little things you've done to make your Cub even better than the factory did! Lets include "other brand"parts or products that you find better or better priced for your Cub. I'm just starting into my first full restoration with a model 70 and I see new members here daily that don't know these tricks you guys have learned along the way.

Leon

Here's one for you.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ed=1#post17496

Post #4

My story involves unconventional tools used during a repair.

I used my pickup and an old leaf spring to break the beads on several tires, front, rear, these rims, those rims. I had about 6 tire/wheel combos to do.

I placed the leaf spring on the drive, one end on the edge of the tire, near the rim. I'd drive up on it real slow until the bead was broken, help it with a sledge and dull chisel, and then back off.

All was going very well when the neighbor lady stopped by while walking her dog. She said "we have a set of car ramps that work if you'd like to use them". I had to explain to her how my goal wasn't to get the truck in the air, but to get the tires off the rims. She looked at me a little funny and walked away quickly. My 2500HD would have killed her ramps anyway!

The leaf spring worked so well I'll probably make a foot for it if I use it again.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2025Medium.jpg

I've probably got a dozen things for this, if I can remember all of them. I'll start with McMaster-Carr part numbers:

6058K28 for OEM-style tie rod ends, much cheaper than from CC.
60645K441 for heim joints
9528K17 for steering column bearing replacements. Keep your retainers if they're good, and buy these...enough to do about 6 steering columns...save yourself $100...
3088A234 (I think) trunion shims...takes out the side-to-side slop.
91855A335 acorn nut for steering wheel on 7 hp tractors and early 100s.
9142K1 wire loom, very similar to braided stuff used on IH-built tractors.
6445K3 snowthrower chute rotator U-joint.
95755A419 driveshaft spirol pins.
5909K32 steering column pivot thrust bearing.

I'm sure I've got more...this is what I can think of for now.

tips
 

At time when changing small rim tires I use a large c clamp to break the beads. I may make a home made clamp with a larger throat to use on larger rims like rear

When changing small rim tires I just take it to the local cub dealer drop it off.
They call me when it's done I give them $10.00 for 2 tire changes when I pick up the tires.
If I buy the tires from them they usually don't charge me any thing for the change, because I deal with them a lot.:biggrin2.gif:

ole 147

I use an air chisel with a chisel that is ground flat . hammer till you hit rim in a few spots then walk it around the bead .

my cubby 71 came with a piece of old roof shingle in the battery box. kept the b.box from rusting out. i went and got a new batt. any ways. i sure can just about farmer-fix anything! but aint had much fix'in on cubby.:Cub3:

Searching for "fuel tank repair" Had my tank all patched up with JB Weld, but now its leaking.......wonder if the Marvel Mystery Oil had anything to do with it? I do have a wright-up on this matter, but maybe you guys have one better. The leak is comming from the square piece of steel that the nipple is connected to. Not sure where I should have posted this. Thanks, John:American Flag 1:

I use a self sticking rubber mat tile I found at Harbor Freight for $2 to line the bottom of the battery box. It should help keep it dry and stop any battery acid from eating and rusting the bottom out.

Also used a battery post terminal puller to pull the cam bracket from the trunnion shaft on my 1450 hydo. It was rusted on tight the puller worked great for removing the cam bracket.