1200 Run again or parts???
 

Newbie and first post.
Picked up this last week for $150 CAN
Sat for years outside, carb in a box, clutch frozen, head light casting broken, deck ok (one wheel welded back on, no holes)
Remove and flipped the deck and the blades are all most new but very rusty, impact and the nuts are free, sharpened the blades reinstalled, remove top cover, had to press the tension pulley pivot from the shoulder bolt. Got done with very little damage. The L&S is the deck is good and smooth after about 20 shots of grease into each bearing. A little test cut and all good.
Now on to the next.
Only one engine bolt to the ISO mounts:bash2:??? Had to pull engine to get at the clutch did not want to try the engine with the clutch and shaft like that. So got the clutch out, freed and faced the plates. Back in for now.
Engine: (All tin removed) strapped it down to the frame, inspected the carb looked ok other than a bent Idle jet (found a spare) Set to 1.5 turns. Added 8“fuel line (that’s my tank if things go bad). Connected wires to start and run. Put battery in the back. Turned the key. Cranked 10 seconds and fired but quit. Half choke and fired right up. :biggrin2:“Looking like a runner”
Some pictures if I can download. ISO mounts :bigthink: reuse???
The washer with the 4 bolts is cause the flex plate has many cracks. Only temp if its a runner.

Thanks for the looonnnggg post.

not bad, even has a creeper

Congrats on the 1200!

Yeah, what cubcadet said...

In my opinion, unless they have been kept in good running condition, almost any Quiet Line series tractor you get, will need parts/work on the drive line and new motor mounts.

If they didn't need these parts, we would be paying a lot more for them up front.

It would appear that you have a LOT of the real work finished already.

It is also my opinion that if you have a good running engine and a decent (not great or good, just decent) tractor, then it is pretty-much a keeper.

If you don't run into any surprises, after you buy parts and put it together, you'll have ??$350-$400.00?? cash money in it... See if you can buy a good running (no motor mounts/drive line problems) one for that.

A 1200 with a creeper that runs good... That's really pretty great!

Welcome to OCC

After reading and looking. My bigger question is about the ISO mounts. After looking at the 1250. The mounts are not the same. But both don't have the mount change. therefore I would think that there are both factory. The 1250 has the ISO mount that look the same top and bottom. Or at least the top of the 1250 looks the same as the bottoms of the 1200. I check the ISO bolts to the bottom pan of the 1250 and all looks goods. In the short term I think that I will reuse the ISO mounts. But still looking for so advice.


thanks

and thanks for the comments.

You can reuse those mounts,thats the newer replacement style mounts that you would buy at the dealer now.

Welcome to OCC! Good luck with your 1200!

Agreed, those iso mounts can go back in. The mounts that I've replaced looked much worse. A new set will run $80-$100 if you buy the IH version, though some folks are using substitutes that seem to work fine. Fix that up and you'll have a great tractor. It's cool that it has a creeper.

And welcome to the forum!

I just put a set of solid motor mounts in my 1200. But I did a full solid clutch (like previous series) upgrade as my throwout bearing and 3 pin driver were shot. Its a pretty easy fix. Just cost you some $$. Not alot. I paid $15 for a used but good 3 pin driver, $50 for throwout bearing, $40 for solid motor mounts, and couple bucks for some grade 8 bolts. I got my 1200 free and dumped probally $400 when I was done. Didnt keep track. So keep it. Fix it. Use the crap out of it. Unless you want a trailer queen, spend a few bucks and have a GREAT tractor!!!! And you can add a tiller with at creeper. Mine didnt have a creeper. :censored:

Plus the things you learn or teach yourself from working on it gives you a reasaon to pick up another cheap one that needs work and not be afraid to just tear into it. Thats what happened to my 1650. I was scared to try to fix so I sold it and now I really regret it.

Any questions on fixing all the people on here are AWESOME and will give you GREAT advice.

Take care and enjoy!!
John

Running again
 

Engine back in somewhat. Drained and added new oil. One of the bolts into the pan got striped. But 3 is better then 1(the way I got). The running engine is sitting not bad, very little movement at idle and better at WOT. Went though all the gears and all sounds good in both creeper gears. Clutch working as it should now. A little play in the Creeper input shaft, is that normal? Pulled the oil dip stick. A far amount of blow back :bigthink: but the dipstick will stay in place when fully inserted. Shut down and sit for a bit then restarted. That took a bit to get running again. Little choke on a warm engine in the summer? That ok the 1250 is about the same. Shut down then went to restart again. the Amp gauge pinned to the D side. WTH :bash2: the charging circuit was working on the first two starts.(Gauge moved to the charge side and then moved back to normal) Drained the battery enough so that it would not start. Starter would not even roll over. Pulled the fuses still pinned. Pulled the coil wire no change :bash2: pulled the center wire on the V/R and :biggrin2: at least the amp gauge did not move. Soo more to look at. The wiring harness is not in good shape at all.