Replacing Cooling Fan on 1650 Cub Cadet
 

I just got a replacement cooling fan to replace a broke cooling fan on a Cub Cadet 1650. Looking at it, it appears I have to disconnect the rod from the flexible coupling. Never having done this before does anyone know how to replace the cooling fan? Is the fan really even needed? It broke when I was trying to adjust the snowblower lift height following the directions in the manual. Any advice and guidance is appreciated.

Thanks,

Cleon

In cooler climates when used with a snowblower I don't believe the cooling fan is neccessary. I would however get it replaced before the weather warms up too much this spring.
Your going to have to slide the engine ahead to get the shaft out. Or your going to have to drive the roll pins out of the yokes. I was told you need to support the drive shaft on the Hydro end while doing this so as to not damage the bearings in the pump. While your in that far, it would be a good idea to replace the coupling disc if they are the original ones.
Good luck,
Chris

Thanks for the info. Sounds pretty involved for a novice to do. I think I will wait till spring when it is warmer to try to tackle this one. Everything is running fine minus the cooling fan right now.

Wild Bill, I fully agree that one shouldn't have to go under the tunnel cover to adjust the snowthrower lift rod height. Being new to Cubs I followed the manual and was mislead into believing I had to move one of the lift connecting points to gain additional height. When I tried what it directed, broke the fan and didnt gain any height it became clear to me it would be easier to build a new shorter lift rod instead of using the original lift rod that came with the blower.

Thanks,

Cleon01

Just to remind people, you can't really slide the engine forwqard on a ql. The oil pan hits the crossmember. You would actually have to pull the engine out somewhat to get it to work. Now if it was a x82, then the easiest way is to remove the 6 bolts that hold the engine plate to the frame and then slide the engine forward. But anyway you look at it, the driveshaft has to come out to change the fan. Also, I would recommend pulling the engine and checking the iso mounts. Just for good measure.

AJ

Oh yeah, if you decide to pull the engine, I highly recommend buying a super cheap socket set from "Family Dollar". It comes with a 9/16" socket that is really shallow and 1/4" drive. It makes getting the bolts above the axle out a much easier task. As for a added bonus, it comes with a 3/8" socet that will fit on the carb valve seat that comes with the rebuild kits.

AJ

If you take it that far by checking the iso mounts as ajgross says, then I would go ahead and do the QL rail modification. It is suppose to extend the life of the iso mount rubber. Also, I use a 9/16" gearwrench on the forward engine bolts. It works great.

Good luck.....Wayne