options if pins wont come out of drive shaft (rear end side)
 

I can't get these things out. Not with heat or oil or a bfh. Any other ideas. I'm okay with destroying the shaft if need be. Here's a pic of what I'm talkin about http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...ps0288432a.jpg

This is on a 104

I just did this the other night I was having problems too. My first problem was I didn't having enough space to swing my hammer to hit the punch to drive the pin out. But just as important is having the right size punch. Only use a 1/4" punch. I was using a 3/16" and I was causing more damage by peening over the end that you want to drive out of hole making more thinks worse. Go over to Lowes cost $12 for a 6 piece set made by Bostich. Don't forget to shoot some P.B.Blaster on the pin before leave for the store.
Good Luck

Jeff

It may sound silly, but go to Sears and get a package of roll/spiral pin punches, they should cost you aboul $20.00

Then, using a grinder or cut off wheel, grind/cut the pin flush with the side of the coupler. Using your new 1/4" punch, drive the pin out! Don't mess around with it, just DRIVE it out.

You also may want to cut a piece of wood that you can wedge between the coupler and the under side of the tunnel to give the input shaft some support, it will not only help protect the input shaft/bearing/housing from damage, it will also make each "wack" with your hammer more productive.

I have punches. I'm going to have to chop em flush and try the wood trick too. I'm gonna see if my dad has a longer one though.

vartz04: The roll pin punch MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE, believe us, we know from painful experience. :Rant::Swear::Unknown:

roll/ Spiral punch ONLY - and brace.

I can NOT express how much I agree with Jumper. Thanks for the pic.

Spirol punches are the way to go!!! They make quick work of taking out those pins! I agree with everyone else! :beerchug:

Thanks guys. I'll get some of those.

I promise you won't regret it.