A question about a creeper
 

Now i know that a creeper only slows a tractor down to properly run a tiller/blower. Now i have a creeper and i wanna install it on my 100, and i have tore down the creeper to replace the front seal and bearing, and shifting yoke. and noticed that some internal parts aren't quit as beefy as we may like, but can i still use the 100 to plow at our local plow day, or does it make a vulnerable weak spot? or should i use my 70 like i always do. (a little long winded sorry) any help is appriciated. thanks

If your gunn a plow alot id leave the creeper on the bench. I had one in my 108 for the cool and rare factor but took it out since its a week point for plowing

I know very little here but if you don't have the creeper engaged wouldn't you be right where you are now without it or does the transmission now drive through the creeper engaged or not?

What are you trying to say?

I'm saying with the added stress of plowing is it going to damage the creeper if it is disengaged while I'm plowing or should I just not plow with it. I don't want to damage a good creeper.

I don't think it will be a problem as long as upkeep is.done and its.not a.dedicated plowed. My buddy has a 122 and drives it everywhere ( no license) and he had a good sized.trailer hooked it it 98% and eventually he has no high range in the creeper. Low works just fine. I've seen the inside and they don't look beefy at alp

Yes, it drives through the creeper whether it's in high or low. The creeper is between the driveshaft and transmission, so how else would it work?

I, too, would leave it off of a plow tractor.

Same here.

I've been thinking about this since I plan to put a creeper on my 108. Seems if the output of the creeper can be four times the input torque when engaged, it should easily handle the straight-through torque for plowing snow. Sure, there are some shock loads on the tractor, but I don't see a weakness in the design. Or am I missing something?

Having 2 102s one with creeper and one without I would say when using a blade a creeper is not necessary but with a snow thrower they are gold. To operate properly You should shift into neutral and engage the creeper and to disengage you must do the same. Shifting in or out on the fly according to the instructions is a no no. When the creeper is engaged you have three gears lower than normal first. Even 3rd gear low is a little slower than low gear high. There can be a lot more shifting in and out when backing up as most times reverse low is really slow. Once you get used to the shift it does go pretty good.