1250 rear clip removal
 

I feel bad for opening a new thread but I had to give up searching old posts.

I want to replace the 38 year old valves on the hydro pump. It has leaked somewhat from when I bought it 32 years ago but it is getting worse plus the reverse is getting more and more "iffy" and I figure it's time.

The cover from the steering console to the seat would probably grant access to the valves but as long as I'm at it, would be a good time to pull the rear clip and do a proper clean-up. It's filthy.

Before I start though...

It looks like battery comes out, 4 bolts in the rear battery pan. Moving to the front, 4 bolts on each side that look like are simple hold-downs for the diamond plate foot pads (philips type on top but a hex nut on the bottom). I assume they also secure the clip, if not I'm screwed since everything else appears to be welded to the frame.

If I'm correct, are there any other bolts holding it that I haven't found yet?

Those should be the only bolts you need to remove. So far I have had to use a grinder and or chisel to remove the 4 bolts on each foot pad. I just replace them with grade 8 bolts from Tractor Supply. :beerchug:

thanks! not looking forward to the task and hoping some liquid wrench and MAPP gas will let me get those footpad nuts without grinding. But as I said, it's been leaking for years and seems to be getting worse with time. And it looks quite nasty when I pulled the small cover.

We fortunately have a bit of warm weather here before the snow flies and the grass has stopped growing so I have a small window to play with (even there...living here, the town plows the driveway for $75 per season!!!)...go figure.

You have to remove the screws that hold the foot treads down, and not the nuts. The nuts are welded to the frame, as stated the screws can be a bear to get out. I had good luck with using a impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer.

As the others stated, the screws on the foot treads can be a pain in the arse. I've found that squirting each one with a good penetrating oil twice a day for a week really helps out. Also the impact driver does work well. Shoot, you might get lucky and they'll come right out! :biggrin2:

On my 800, I had to pull them and they came right out. The PO had put antiseize on the threads before putting them back in. Thanks Matt G. :biggrin2: :beerchug:

I don't think mine are going to come out easy. I tried to remove them a few years ago to paint them and gave up before I did any real damage. So I'll start the liquid wrench and see what happens. BTW, be thankful that the philips head bolts/screws are becoming dinosaurs in favor of hex or stars.

All else fails use the hot wrench to get them out.

Right angle grinder, die grinder with a cut off wheel or drill them out. I tend to use a combination of all my tools with the foot pad bolts. Then anti seize when they go back in. They are a royal PITA. :biggrin2:

I have a feeling that's where it's headed but I'll try some more liquid wrench followed by MAPP gas (I just love the smell of burning liquid wrench in the morning...and what's a few more years off my lungs?). I lent my hand impact to somebody and never got it back. It looks like a free bolt would come out with a #3 philips but I suspect a #4 would be better if they make such a thing (I know I don't have a #4). And then I have the pedal on the left side, lift handle on the right side.

I hope to salvage at least one of them to be able to replace them with something close...they do blend into the pad nicely and don't get in the way...they look to be akin to a big pan-head stove bolt...1/4" or maybe 5/16" or perhaps even 3/8"?

Foot pad bolts
 

The bolts holding the foot pads are 5/16" and are no more than an inch long. Soaking them and then using an hammer impact driver usually works but if that falls short and you have access to a welder you can weld nuts on the bolt heads. It's a good place to use old nuts that are lying around. Weld the inside of the nut to the bolt head then wrench it out. This method ruins the bolts but they can be replaced with 5/16" cap screws. McMaster-Carr also has some pretty close replacements if you want to go back with round head slotted or phillips.