169 Hitch Install
 

I figured the one thing this tractor was missing the most is a 3-point hitch, so I bought one off eBay. A friend and I were trying to install the hitch last night. We spent about an hour trying to get the lift bar attached to the lift arm underneath the frame cover. There is simply not enough room between the lift arm and the lift bar attaching plate to get it in there. I am finally about to conclude that the lift arm has been broken and the original owner repaired it using some sort of homemade clevis-type metal piece and just didn’t happen to mention it.



I am hoping that some of you experienced Cubbers can tell me what’s going on here. I am thinking the lift arm should just be one smooth piece coming up from that bottom shaft (the one the lift arm rotates on) up to the hydraulic arm link end. If it was like that, I believe the lift lever would fit in there with no problem. What I’m thinking should be done is remove the entire link and re-weld the arm back the way it should be so I can install the hitch lever.



Does the lift arm that hooks to the hydro ram look like it’s been messed with? How much of a task will getting the entire shaft assembly out of there be?



Thanks for any replies…

I have pictures if somebody can tell me how to attach... I posted them in an album called "rocketdog pics" but don't know how to attach them to this thread.

Here is the manual for the lift install on your wide frame:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/WF%203PT%20Install.pdf

:Welcome2:

Pictures are worth a thousand words here!

Trying to attach pictures...

Also, somehow I managed to erase the first part of my intended original message.

It should read:


I am the recent proud purchaser of a 169 Cub. It was bought from the original owner who got it in 1975. Came with a front blade, snow thrower and mower deck.

I figured the one thing this tractor was missing the most is a 3-point hitch, so I bought one off eBay. A friend and I were trying to install the hitch last night. We spent about an hour trying to get the lift bar attached to the lift arm underneath the frame cover. There is simply not enough room between the lift arm and the lift bar attaching plate to get it in there. I am finally about to conclude that the lift arm has been broken and the original owner repaired it using some sort of homemade clevis-type metal piece and just didn’t happen to mention it.



I am hoping that some of you experienced Cubbers can tell me what’s going on here. I am thinking the lift arm should just be one smooth piece coming up from that bottom shaft (the one the lift arm rotates on) up to the hydraulic arm link end. If it was like that, I believe the lift lever would fit in there with no problem. What I’m thinking should be done is remove the entire link and re-weld the arm back the way it should be so I can install the hitch lever.



Does the lift arm that hooks to the hydro ram look like it’s been messed with? How much of a task will getting the entire shaft assembly out of there be?



Thanks for any replies…

:Welcome2: Good luck with your 169.

1x8/9 Lift Mechanism
 

RocketDog: Congratulations on the pickup of a 169. I think your mechanism has received the installation of a "welded float lockout pin." There is no float to the mechanism when it is welded like that. The user is supposed to install a "float lockout pin" (not supplied with the tractor) in one of the open holes seen in your pictures.

I've attached a photograph of the setup on my 149 which shows how the top half of the link is supposed to "bend" in order to allow attachments (like a mower deck) to float. Normally, one doesn't lock out the float unless one is performing ground engagement activities, like running a belly blade.

I would recommend grinding off the weld and getting a float lockout pin if you ever want to lock it back down again.

Just for the record, I can sympathize somewhat with the previous owner's frustrations. My lift frequently "hangs up" unless there is significant weight on it, I'm not sure what the problem is, but my attempts to fashion my own lockout pin were frustrated, there isn't enough room in there to take a nut and bolt either. :)

Jeremiah

JayJay,
Just by looking at the pics, it appears that the pin is just missing in the top hole. It doesn't appear to me that the brackets were welding together. I believe rocketdog is talking about the top bracket where the cylinder hooks to. I think we need rocketdog to pop in and give us some more information. Like when the lift moves, does the top bracket move down like it's supposed to with the pin removed.

Rocketdog,
I can see the two holes where to bolts go through to bolt the rearlift bracket on. What kind of clearance problems are you having? Is the lift bracket hitting the frame or is it hitting the top bracket? When the lift moves, does the top bracket move towards the front of the tractor, or is it solid to the bottom bracket and everything move? We'll help you get this figured out.

Second Look
 

Josh: Yes, you're right. I was confusing the joint for the welded tab on the end. I think Rocketdog's lift is OK, but he's right, there just isn't a lot of room in there to do anything. If the manual doesn't instruct him in the order of operations, he may have to split the tractor just to gain access to the front of the lift assembly; and perform final assembly of the hitch at the rear, once he has the differential & transmission back in.

Just a thought.

Jeremiah

Edit 1: After reading the manual DX3 posted, I noticed the following line:

"Insert from the inboard side and thread [two 3/8"-16 x 3/4" long cap screws] into the tapped holes in the attaching plate (6)."

It looks like he has all the right pieces, he just needs to get the bolts in the holes. He also needs to be sure to insert the lift bar above a tab in the transmission, although the manual reports it is only a problem for gear drive units.

PS: I didn't realize there was supposed to be a grease fitting in there!

Edit 2: After studying his pictures, it seems like he needs to drill holes in the lift arm through which to insert the 3/8" bolts the manual calls out. I don't see anywhere he can insert them in his.

Jeremiah,
There's no reason to split the tractor. That front coupler can be a pain to get in, though. For the backside, you have to pop one rear tire off to get the bar through the cast part of the rear lift and into the rear of the tractor frame. If you look closely in the first pic and third pic, you can see the holes already there for the front lift coupler. No drilling needed. Actually your pic shows exactly where the holes are. Sometimes can be a pain to line up the holes, especially with the limited space. But it should go on unless theres something amiss that we don't know about.

I had to run down to the garage this morning....

Here comes the admission of brain failure.

I think my buddy and I were trying to get the lift bar attaching plate bolted in through the red holes (see attached pics) instead of the yellow holes. I don't think we even considered (or maybe didn't even see) that bottom yellow hole. I didn't have time to verify, but am pretty sure the plate will bolt into the yellow holes with no problem. I'm sure you can see that we already have the lift bar and attaching plate right there in position (just need to rotate the plate around a little).

Also, I can raise the front blade with a jack and see that the lift arm "breaks down" just like in JayJay's 149 photo. Seems like everything is intact and working like it should. I'll be working on it tonight and hope to be able to get the hitch install completed this evening.

I appreciate everyone's input. I'll get some better pics of the tractor posted after I get it all back together.