Cub 123 - Fix? Part out? Replace?
 

So, I obtained a Cub 123 about a year ago, from an old man who's owned it the last 40+ years. He took good care of his stuff, and always kept it indoors. It still had original rubber on all four corners, and every nut, bolt, and accessory, with the exception of the motor which he had replaced with a newer K301AS in the early 1980's. I have since rebuilt the carb, new ignition coil, points, wire, new fuel tank, new speed control linkage and cam, new hydro gasket, and all of the other weak / wear points. I even bought a restored original seat and put it on the tractor. It's a well cared for machine.

That said, it seems to always be breaking when I need it most, and just last week the connecting rod broke. I bought another K301AS from a John Deere, but am having trouble finding the time to make the conversion. Prior to this, I've been shut down with everything from a dead ignition coil to a leaking float valve. It's an old machine, and I rely on it way too often.

I think it's time to replace the cub with a utility tractor. Question is, do I need to repair the cub to get a decent price for it? I have three engines, the original which was pulled off in the 1980's, the one that was in it until last week (broken connecting rod), and a newer K301AS from a Deere. I also have a QA42 snow thrower, a 42" plow blade, and a 48" mower deck, all original equipment.

Repair it? Sell it as-is? Part it out? What would YOU do?

Money is not growing on trees around here, but time is even more precious at the moment. I am willing to spend some money to replace this tractor with a utility tractor with FEL that can also do all of the Cub's former jobs:

1. Snow plowing / throwing.
2. Towing my utility trailer
3. Towing an aerator and a broadcast sprayer.
4. Towing a 25 gallon sprayer.
5. Playing back-up to my good mower (757 ZTrak 60")

You've gone through alot of it already, why not finish it out right and keep it?
You say you have a good mower, so the 123 isn't a main machine, could be a back up? If it was my choice I would spend the time and fix it into a dependable tractor. Take your time, as you get extra $ put it into the 123. It's not eating any oats!
Pictures would be a plus.:TwoCents::WWP:

Just my opinion so take it as that.
It is always sad to see another cub disappear in parts even though it might make rebuilding others possible.From a pure $$$$ stand point it will bring more in parts than whole. It all depends on your money situation and time. Need more $$$, got time part it out. Satisfied with what it will bring whole, short on time sell it whole as is.
Good Luck!

My vote, like others, is almost always to save them. They don't make them anymore and it is a solid machine. Once you fix up the little things that are failing, then you will have a solid, reliable machine that, as you said a couple of times it was well taken care of. Several of us on this site have found them in what others would say--junk condition--and we have revived them back into working, functional tractors......and we learned a lot from doing that, too. Let us know what you decide!

Cub Cadet 123

I'm with you guys on keeping the thing together. Forgive my moment of weakness.

A friend just gave me an idea. Find someone who still works on Kohler engines around here, take both the original engine (worn valve guides) and the second engine (broken connecting rod) to him, and just pay to have one of the two rebuilt. That sounds like a good plan to me. I love rebuilding engines (used to build hotrod engines many years ago), but I just don't have a free minute right now.

So... how does one go about finding a good Kohler mechanic? I'm in Montgomery County, near Philadelphia.

Also, what can I expect to pay to have valve guides replaced and an engine gone over? I suspect the one with the broken connecting rod is not the best rebuild candidate, since it likely has crank damage (from the broken rod) and piston/bore damage (was run dry once).

Thanks!

Here is my opinion, and I like the 120 series the least of all the cubs made.

I would repair it and keep it.

Why?


Even at 40+ years old, it will likely last longer than something new, and the cost of fixing it up will likely be less than what a new tractor will cost you.

Every time I look at a new machine (like a Kubota or a Case, etc) I can't believe how much plastic is on one of them, how "cheap" they feel, and how high the price tag is.


Plus your 123 is a hydro, and I think those are just awesome.

i would fix it up, afterall it is the first hydro of the line..... i have one on my wish list and hopefully be picking up one here in the next couple weeks

I say fix it up. The Kohlers are simple motors to rebuild. As long has u have a service manual you will be good to go. There are kits on Epay for 100$ everything is there to rebuild it. Guides are not to hard to do i use a carriage bolt on pound them out into the valve pan. To install new one repeat the step and use alot of oil. Then you have to ream them out. I used a 5/16 drill bit.

Going to look at a Deere 855 this weekend, and already have a 750 to borrow, both with FEL's. That takes a little pressure off, but still have lots to do.

Might make time to do a rebuild after all, esp. now that I have the original engine and it looks to be serviceable. It's been sitting in the attic of a shed for a while, so the outside looks rough, but the owner tells me it was running well when pulled. He actually did a rebuild on it not that long before pulling it, and regrets not doing the valve guides, that being the only problem with the engine when he swapped it out.

He had said he thought the standard procedure was to thread the bore of the valve guide, and use a bolt to pull it out, and then there was a special punch tool for tapping the new ones in. No?

The bigger issue for me is grinding / lapping in the new valves. I've never done that before, and he recommended I go ahead and replace the valves if I'm doing the guides. Any recommendations? Checked YouTube for Kohler valve guide replacement videos, and found zero hits.

Thanks!

valve guides
 

Fred, go to the technical section and look at the manual for your tractor. It shows how to pull the old guides out. You are correct about tapping it, then pulling it out with a 6" bolt ,nut,washer and spacer.Good luck,have fun ( when you get the time). It is the chassis service manual, but the operators manual has some good info too. Chris:RTFM: