1650 dies when it heats up.
 

I have been chasing problems for some time on this tractor. I had it running well earlier this year, then on day mowing by the road it quit. I had nothing, no spark. I replaced the condenser for the third time, nothing, I then replaced the coil for the second time in less than a year, got spark and got it off the road. Points were replaced as well. I have set the timing by every method metioned here. I can get the thing to purr. I have 3 acres to mow, I make about 8 passes and it just dies. It seems like it may have something to do with the timing so I try another method and get it working again (maybe because it cooled down). I make another 6-12 passes it does it again. :bash2::bash2: Is there something i am missing?

Are you purchasing Kohler coils? It definitely sounds like a coil issue.

Previous two coils were kholer, this one is not. It was recommended by the guy that sold me the previous coils. I just took the air filter off and noticed there was smoke coming out of the carb when it died the last time almost wanting to backfire. Could it be a fuel problem caused by heat?

could it be the rod that opens the points i cant rember what it it is called i have been told to keep my eyes on that

Yes the points push rod can wear down and become shorter not allowing the points to open enough. Just not sure that is the issue, but it might be. Are the plug and plug wire new. I would check the resistance on the plug wire and make sure it is a solid core wire, not a stranded wire.

I am DX3 on this don't think it would be the point push rod because it would run like crap even cold. I would start with new plug and wire to start with as already mentioned. Next I would check the fuel delivery. If that is not the problem maybe you have a valve hanging open when it warms up.

It might be possible that one of the valve seats is not sitting right:bigthink:, when the motor warms up, the seat lifts up, the engine looses compression and would die. This is a major problem with the old cast iron briggs:bash2:. I would put in a new spark plug and coil wire and try it next

With my 1250 it was the spark plug wire. Replaced everything else just so it all was new, still acted up when hot. Replaced plug wire, no more problems.:ThumbsUp:

As a suggestion, you may want to look at the V/R. If you are getting "over voltage". that will burn up a Ignition Coil. 13.7 VDC would be the maximum voltage for your electrical system,

when you say the engine will restart after it stalls, do you need to let the engine cool down for any period of time or will it just start right back up again immediately?

if it takes a while to cool down before it restarts, the next time you start mowing, grab a spark tester. As soon as the engine dies, put a spark tester at the end of the spark wire and crank - if you have spark - then you might have a fuel delivery issue.

if you suspect a fuel delivery issue (like vapor lock on hot days) try to temporarily reroute the fuel delivery line away from any hot spots on the engine block. Also, consider running with the fuel cap loosened in case your fuel cap is not venting the fuel tank properly. A clogged cap will cause a high vacuum to build in the fuel tank and will limit the delivery of fuel thru the fuel pump.

I have had success temporarily splicing a section of clear fuel line from the carb to the fuel filter to help visually identify lack of fuel to the fuel pump. A temporary section of clear line after the fuel pump can help identify failing valves / rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump assy.

If you feel it may be electrical, a temporary jumper from the battery (+) terminal to the coil (+) will bypass any intermittent in the wiring thru the ignition switch and harness. Also check the points wire is not just hanging on by a single strand of wire - I have seen that too.

If you are lucky, the tractor takes a while to cool down before it starts back up. You can perform several meaningful diagnostics in that "down time".

Let us know how long the down time is before it will restart and how much "crank time" before it restarts. Both times offer valuable additional diagnostic clues.