1811...Hydro help
 

Hello. I'm new here and had a few questions. I recently picked up an 1811 that needs a lot of work. It's in rough shape cosmetically but the engine and trans are still going hard. I plan on totaly rebuilding and could use some help.

My first item of concern...I'm trying to pick up an additional set of rear wheels and want to know if a set of JD 24x10.5x12 wheels will cause any concerns on the Cub. There's only an inch difference. I know they're not Cub wheels, but funds are tight and the price is right. They would be used to put AG tires on for the garden.

Second...the steering won't turn the same distance to the right as to the left. When I turn it to the right and kick the left wheel, it will almost finish the travel to the stop but not quite. I've cleaned all the built up dirt away but it's still not 100%. Is there a way to adjust the steering to fix this?

Third...can I adjust the Hydro trans? When the trans lever is in the neutral postition the tractor wants to reverse. I have to put the lever forward about half an inch to get it to sit still. When I apply the brake or use the Hydro lift, I can hear and feel the trans trying to move the tractor. This can't be good. Am I destined to have to replace the trans plate or springs?

These forums are a new thing to me. I appreciate any and all assistance relating to forum and the Cub.

Thanks,
Joel

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1987 Cub 1811 Hydro w/ 3pt and ball hitch
44" deck
IH 46" plow
Agri-Fab pull behind broadcast spreader
LoadHog trailer
Soon to own...Cat 0, single bottom plowplow

(1) It's your tractor. YES, they will fit. Hope you will paint them Cub Cadet white though..:biggrin2:

(2) Turn your steering wheel all the way to the right. Take a piece of Masking Tape and place at the "12 o'clock" position on the steering wheel. Rotate the wheel in the opposite direction. Count the number of turns to get there (ie: 3 or 4). Now rotate the wheel back to the "mid point". Disconnect and adjust your steering linkage(s) so that the wheels are straight forward. Reconnect linkage(s) and you are good to go.

(3) Click on this link........and follow the link within. Go to page 2-57 and follow instructions for Hydro Neutral Adjustment........... Service Manual

Roland,

Absolutely Cub Cadet white! They will only be used for the dirty @*#% work and only until I can get some "real" wheels. I thought I might get some "dirty"looks from that one.

As for the other info...I will work on those concerns today and update.

Thanks.

Joel

Make sure the offset on those JD rims will work...I know that many other manufacturers use an offset that will not work on a CC with external brakes.

Thanks Matt. I just found another guy selling some actual CC wheels...gonna get them instead.

Ok. I adjusted the steering and the Hydro as best I could. The drag link is bottomed out on both sides and I still have about 1/2 inch of lost travel, but to the left this time. Should I try adjusting the tie rod now?

The Hydro is better...I noticed the damper spring plate wobbles back and forth a lot. So much so, that in one direction the tractor wants to move in Neutral and in the other, if I hold it there with my hand, it seems fine. The outer compression spring seems very loose and as if it is not giving any pressure on the pin spring guides. It appears that if the compression springs were tighter, the damper plate may not rock from side to side. Just a thought. :HeadScratch:Suggestions?

Yesterday I picked up a Sears moldboard plow in great condition. Looking forward to hooking it up and tearing up some dirt. Tomorrow (today) I'm headed North 3 hours to PA to pick up the CC wheels I found and my new-used hood is on the way.

Thanks again guys for all your wisdom.

If you have loose and wobbling parts, then it is time to replace them.

Adjustments for the Steering should be made at ALL adjustment points to attain what you want.

You got a good model of tractor with the 1811 because I have one and it is a great ride. I did have a problem with my steering and went so far as to but a rebuild kit for the worm gear. Alas, it didn't do any good because the worm gear was badly worn and no amount of rebuild would do any good. When I looked into buying a reconditioned three turn model steering column that is on the 1811 it was about $260! So I went ahead and put power steering on instead. What happens when the worm gets worn is that you have lost motion in the steering. When you adjust one direction for travel you lose in the other direction. The big bolt in the side of the gear box that sets the tightness of the steering will hit the bottom of the "V" groove before it makes contact with the sides of the worm and that's where you get the slop. I would replace the ball joints and check the bushings in the axle and the spindles to make sure that you have everything as tight as you can before going to the next step of taking the steering column out to check it for wear. If you do have to buy a new column make sure that you can return it if it is too worn to be any better than the one you have. I replaced everything on my 1811 BEFORE I went to power steering and all of it was no longer of any use to me once I went to PS. If you want any of it I will make you a good deal on it. I went with the greasable ball joints with zerk fittings on them. Also my axle had good bushings and spindles that are tight. Good luck but you are not alone with sloppy steering on a CC. Do not buy a Ross two turn model column for your 1811. It will make turning it even worse than before.