PTO clutch won't stop.
 

I have a type B PTO cluch with brake on my 1973 149. Last time I engaged to Clutch both pressure springs broke. I took the clutch apart and reinstalled 2 new springs. The problem i'm having now is that the clutch wont stop turning even when the brake is on. I tried tightening the turnbuckle on the control rod all the way and it didn't help. What did I do wrong? Also, the very last plate that goes on before the washer and snap ring is rattling and making a lot of racket. Is this part of my problem? I could use some help!

When you replaced the parts did you adjust the clutch with the adjustment tool?

Tool seen here:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9

Also here it the Chassis Service manual that will help you adjust your PTO correctly and trouble shoot it:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%...e%20Manual.pdf

No, I didnt use the adjustment tool. I didn't have one and didn't realize how important they are. I printed a copy of the link you gave me and am going to fabricate a tool to match for set up. I hope that is all it takes! maybe the screws were too tight or too loose? Thanks A lot.

Yeah the tool is pretty important to get the correct setting. That should be the fix of your problem. Then readjust your turnbuckle so that when you have the lever forward you can slide a matchbook cover between the button and the PTO lever button. That should have you set.

I just rebuilt my Type B PTO clutch with brake. Sounds like you don't have the PTO adjusted correctly. You don't need the pto gauge tool, that's for Type A and Type B PTO's w/out the brake. My PTO rebuild kit supplied me with the measurement you are looking for. If you look at the first link Dwayne posted, Part 17, brake disc, needs to be 1/4 inch from part 5, the Pulley. You need to measure the distance around the entire brake and adjust the screws accordingly. The plate you are talking about before the washer and snap ring is the brake disc. If you adjust the pto correctly the 3 fingers on the brake disc will sit deep enough in the pulley so there shouldn't be that much play or movement. The manual doesn't supply the measurement for the brake disc to pulley for some reason. It does give you the measurement for the distance between the brake disc and the brake shoe, part 21 in Dwayne's link. If you have a PTO with part #8 thrust button and part #9 wear button then you need a PTO gauge as Dwayne states. :beer2:

Okay guys, I really appreciate your help but im still stumped. I reset the spring tension although it looks pretty close to where I was before. Here is what I'm seeing now. First of all when the motor is off, the cluch will not turn freely from the clutch basket. Is that the norm? I cant remember what it was like when I took it off the first time. Also, When the Handle is pulled back to stop the clutch the brake and brake plate are touching but it just bogs the motor way down almost to the point of stalling and the clutch pulley won't stop. What should I go after next? Thanks for the replies and the help.

I'm wondering of the PTO bearing might have seized up? I myself would look at taking it completely apart and checking everything out. Yeah I know a PITA but the best way to trouble shoot it and just go ahead and put a new rebuild kit in it along with a new bearing. When the handle is back it should stop turning and you should be able to turn the pto with your hand when the motor is stopped with the handle in the rear position.

Thanks DX3, When I took the PTO off the bearing stayed on the shaft. I did not remove it. I tried turning the outer race and it did turn but seemed pretty tight. I didn't know if it was bad or not because it wasn't completly seized. I think I will try a new rebuild kit and bearing. One more question, Should I put the bearing back on the shaft the put PTO back on or put the bearing into the PTO then reinstall onto shaft? Is one way better than the other? Thanks again!

The bearing has to go on first. It has a locking ring that locks it into place. Then the PTO goes on and you use the set screws to lock it onto the bearing. I suggest downloading the service manual if you haven't yet. It will show you how everything goes. Yeah that bearing should turn extremely easy. You will have to unlock the ring in order to get the bearing off.

Use a drift and knock the ring clockwise to unlock and then you will turn it CCW to tighten the bearing down.

Ok, I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow or Friday. I do have a copy of the service manual. I will be sure to let you know how I make out.