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-   -   K301 Connecting Rod (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14421)

mattoney 11-20-2011 12:29 AM

K301 Connecting Rod
 
Hey guys, maybe you can help explain something to me.

I've got a K301AS out of a Cub Cadet 122. S/N C003586, Spec 4759B.

I had to turn the crank down .010 and had to get a new connecting rod. My research on partstree.com and Kohler Engines says I need P/N 47 067 10-S. I ordered a new one from NAPA.

When it came, I installed it and decided to give it a crank by hand to make sure all was well and found it was not. The I-beam of the connecting rod is much wider by the crankshaft, and beats against the cylinder wall.

I have since ordered three more connecting rods, each time from Kohler. Twice from NAPA, once from Carquest, and once from John Deere. (The nearest CC dealer is a way's away.) Each time, the box from Kohler is labeled "47 067 10-S" and the part inside is "47 059 07".

I know y'all will want pictures, but the tractor is at my parents' house at home. Hopefully I can get some pictures tomorrow when I'm there.

Anybody else run across this problem? What'd you do? I'm almost afraid to order anything from anyone now, in fear of getting this larger rod again and not being able to return it.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

R Bedell 11-20-2011 07:28 AM

According to the Kohler Web Site, the 47 67 10-S is the correct connecting rod for your motor (.010) undersized.

I suspect, that the 47 059 07 is just the upper part of the connecting rod, while the 47 067 10-S is the kit, rod and cap.

mattoney 11-20-2011 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell (Post 101902)
According to the Kohler Web Site, the 47 67 10-S is the correct connecting rod for your motor (.010) undersized.

I suspect, that the 47 059 07 is just the upper part of the connecting rod, while the 47 067 10-S is the kit, rod and cap.

All the 47 059 07's I've seen so far have come with rod with threaded studs, cap, and nuts. I'm a little confused by your comment. Can you explain?

It looks to me like a complete rod that should go on a bigger engine. I've been doing some research to find where this rod is used, and I'm seeing K301 alot, but I am also coming back with a few hits on K341's.

Matt G. 11-20-2011 10:23 AM

The number cast into the rod is a casting number and has nothing to do with the final part number. You are correct, you cannot buy just the top part of the rod with no cap and fasteners.

This is a really odd problem, because IIRC, the K241 is a shorter stroke, and the K301-K361 are all the same stroke and therefore have the same length rod. Pictures would be really helpful.

Are all three of those rods physically identical?

Merk 11-20-2011 11:13 AM

Is the motor a K301 or a K241?

What is the cylinder bore measurement?

R Bedell 11-20-2011 12:19 PM

According to the Kohler Website, the 47 067 10-S is used on 891 applications for the K301, K321, M-12, & M-14 motors. In other words, most all 12 & 14HP K and M series Kohler Motors.

R Bedell 11-20-2011 02:46 PM

:bigthink:

Also, would we assume correctly, that all the parts being used are genuine Kohler Parts and there are NO aftermarket parts...???

ol'George 11-21-2011 07:00 AM

A wolf in sheeps clothing?
Do you have a K241 with the K301 I.D. tags that possibly the p.o. installed?
Aw, the plot thickens.----

samiam44 11-21-2011 04:56 PM

I don't understand the parts difference and exactly where it is hitting.

Maybe some pictures of new vs old rod, piston, crank and the installation so we can see the problem.

I would guess the new rod to be better/beefier than the old ones.

Michael

mattoney 11-21-2011 05:41 PM

Sorry guys, too busy at work today to get any measurements. I'm hoping to take some measurements and get some pictures of the two rods side by side. I also tried to get some pictures from inside the block but I can't get my camera maneuvered around where I need to get a good view. I'll keep at it though.

As for Kohler genuine or not...when I rebuilt this engine a few years ago, I got a "kit" from Stens. It had the correct std sized rod that ended up coming loose. The rods I am finding are coming in boxes marked "Kohler" and "Genuine Parts" with the blue and white K design I've seen for years. Unless someone is switching the parts, I believe them to be genuine.

As for whether its a closet K241, when I measured the bore on the block, it measured the specs matching a worn K301. Due to the amount of deep scratches I saw in the sidewall, I had it bored 10 over. If something wasn't right here, I would have caught it. I do not remember measuring the stroke at that time. I was more concerned about the walls.

Sorry I don't have pictures to show you yet. Hopefully tomorrow. Hope this information helps out.


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